I am curious how they came to the conclusion it's a gasket.
Well it's not the manifold to engine gasket as water does not pass through it. Elbow or riser gasket....maybe. Head gasket.....maybe.
Bob, can you post some pics showing the fit between the manifold and engine compartment sides?
Jason,
The pictures below show the tight fit and how the riser just slides under the overhang of the rear of the boat.
I picked up the boat and of the 3 shop mechanics that they have, with one gentleman being in his 60's, they were suspecting the riser gasket due to the water spraying out of cylinder 3 and 4 when they turned it over with the spark plugs out. The mechanic explained that what they do is fill the manifold with water, turn over the engine with the spark plugs out and then try to see where the water is entering the cylinder. Plus, check how much water no longer is in the manifold. In addition, they did a compression check and basically said strong compression but they get readings all over the place in cylinder 3 and 4 with the water in it. They advised that most often they see in these engines the riser gasket or a head gasket. He also mentioned the manifold gasket but consensus is that there is no water that can infiltrate through that gasket. I think the mechanic was simply saying they typically replace all three when they have them apart.
Now for the problem that they didn't want to address. They said typically they would pull the riser, manifold and check the head gasket and it is a simple job when you have access to the engine. Here are the pictures of the problem that they didn't want to solve for, due to the time and effort to tear into things.
The first picture is looking down into the engine compartment and you can see the "overhang" of the boat and the manifold and riser running underneath. In the second picture here is the "gap" between the riser and the overhang of the boat about the length of my fingernail. Then in the 3rd picture is the length of the riser studs, just call that about an inch and then the next picture is of the manifold studs since they were thinking of swinging the manifold out but that is a no go too with the studs and riser.
The mechanic did want to know if there was some trick they might be missing. He advised that they don't like to put pressure on the fiberglass since it could create spider cracks but in tight squeezes there is some give but not much. He was curious if the boat had to be split to get the engine out?
Any suggestions on how to start taking it apart? Or does anyone see how the engine could come out if needed?
Thanks - Bob
About the width of a fingernail -
Length of the riser studs - just call it an inch -
Here is a view of the manifold attached with studs also - mechanic said in his experience attempting to turn these out results in a broken stud.
Here is a google plus post with more photos -
https://plus.google.com/u/0/+RobertMoritz01/posts/YH9ugiLVrJz?pid=6049045029055337666&oid=117893088135905942662Lastly, they do have a good running 1994 3.0 engine that they ran and tested before pulling out of a Rinker - however, you can see the changes in the manifold and the angled riser.