Author Topic: And so it begins. (Read 17679 times)

Rosscoe · « **Reply #40 on:** April 24, 2016, 03:23:55 PM »

Boy, there isn't much to grind. I'm down to just gel coat.

CVX Fever · « **Reply #41 on:** April 24, 2016, 05:21:56 PM »

Ross I'm surprised Rich hasn't chimed in. He converted that cuddly of his from an OMC Stringer to a MerCruiser so he had a big hole to fill. Seems like you should take the same approach with your boat. Search for that thread. I was surprised how thin the glass was on my CVX18 when I dug out the transom. Always thought for some reason that area was laid up good and heavy. Nope.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #42 on:** April 25, 2016, 10:27:59 AM »

Thought all the strength on I/O's was at motor mounts and transom was just to hold drive ?
Where an outboard has all it strength on transom, you remember the resin plate behind my wood transom Ross, very thick ...

Your CV23 is a very nice boat ... worth the time, money and effort needed to make her solid again Ross ...

dorelse · « **Reply #43 on:** April 25, 2016, 10:44:11 AM »

Quote from: Hyperacme on April 25, 2016, 10:27:59 AM

Thought all the strength on I/O's was at motor mounts and transom was just to hold drive ?
Where an outboard has all it strength on transom, you remember the resin plate behind my wood transom Ross, very thick ...

Your CV23 is a very nice boat ... worth the time, money and effort needed to make her solid again Ross ...

Well, I would assume that since the rear 2 motor mounts are hanging on the transom plate, that all 4 have to be strong. Sure, it wouldn't need to be as thick as your OB's transom, but they have to take a load especially holding up the I/O when trimming, etc under load?

Rosscoe · « **Reply #44 on:** April 25, 2016, 09:01:33 PM »

The original transom is 2" thick. 1/2" ply full width and 2- 3/4" pieces just behind the motor.
Oh yeah its worth it. Just was hoping I didn't have to mess with the outside much.
Took a break from grinding since it was raining. Doing some other things like tearing the cabin 1/2 apart just to change the horn! While I have that "wall" out, I might as well do my electrical clean up. I dont like it when I find cut off wires behind the dash.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #45 on:** April 28, 2016, 07:40:50 PM »

I would be very interested in seeing the thru hull set up others have in their 23's At least where they exit and what kind of ells and tips etc.
Jeff? Alex?
It looks to me that a guy might lose their rear tow hooks. Not a big deal except for strapping the rear to the trailer.

carlsoncvx18 · « **Reply #46 on:** April 29, 2016, 04:43:53 AM »

Ross

Out of the country right now, but the thru hull on my 23 vs Alex are different.

Alex did his the same way as my 18 and my wife 23 they have a extra block under the riser to bring up the height then exit straight out the back.

If you plan on doing thru hull now is the time to do it.

fireman24mn · « **Reply #47 on:** April 29, 2016, 01:53:15 PM »

I would just grind the whole area out good leaving in the bad part. Put a few layers of glass over it on the inside. Then install transom. Then grind outside and a couple layers of glass. Make sure outside is good and flat no high or low spots, otherwise transom seal wont seal. Other wise if you cut out the bad section you will need to build and layer the "new" section to match the other thickness. Transom need to be flat and true in order to seal.

Most of the 23's don't have the trailer/ tow hooks on the back. If you have them they could have been added aftermarket. Not sure, but both of mine do not have them.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #48 on:** April 29, 2016, 09:49:01 PM »

Quote from: carlsoncvx18 on April 29, 2016, 04:43:53 AM

Ross

Out of the country right now, but the thru hull on my 23 vs Alex are different.

Alex did his the same way as my 18 and my wife 23 they have a extra block under the riser to bring up the height then exit straight out the back.

If you plan on doing thru hull now is the time to do it.

Yes so I have seen by facebook posts. Good for you.
I'd be interested to see at what height yours exit after the spacer block.
I dont think Hot Carl visits here very often but I would like to see each set up.
The funds are not available for me to pull this together right now and I know its it the time to do it. I may end up leaving it all apart until $ loosens up.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #49 on:** April 29, 2016, 10:01:55 PM »

Quote from: fireman24mn on April 29, 2016, 01:53:15 PM

I would just grind the whole area out good leaving in the bad part. Put a few layers of glass over it on the inside. Then install transom. Then grind outside and a couple layers of glass. Make sure outside is good and flat no high or low spots, otherwise transom seal wont seal. Other wise if you cut out the bad section you will need to build and layer the "new" section to match the other thickness. Transom need to be flat and true in order to seal.

Most of the 23's don't have the trailer/ tow hooks on the back. If you have them they could have been added aftermarket. Not sure, but both of mine do not have them.

Yeah I was thinking about leaving the bad part there as it defines the bottom of the key hole but one of the major chunks left will fall out if I continue to grind inside. My whole idea with grinding what I have was to get the pushed in gel to lay flat outside but its going to fall apart. I think that was at least part of the problem with the repair. It wasn't flat inside or out.
I think I am just going to take out as much as I can to get things to lay flat inside. Then lay some glass in there. Then, do the transom. After thats in, build up on the outside. I can kiss the idea of the gel outside not being messed up so with that behind me, anything goes. Much of it will be hidden but after feathering out, it will be beyond the gimbal housing and into the black/white intersection.

Really? No tow hooks back there? I realize there is the ski tow ring but I looked as some pics of GlastronJohns and the 18's are out on the part that sticks out in the back. Mine are in the "inset" area. That is where the main strong part of the transom is. I really dont know why someone would add them if they weren't there from the factory. The PO had an over the transom strap, which I hate. I guess thats the main reason I was going to put them back but not if the exhaust is there. Might be stuck with the over the transom strap?

Jason · « **Reply #50 on:** April 30, 2016, 02:33:40 PM »

Mine does not have tow hooks either and it never moves on the trailer.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #51 on:** May 06, 2016, 09:37:45 AM »

I need to keep my eyes open for a prop(s)
Curious as to what others are running on their 23's
Please let me know and also if you have done any prop testing and what you may have discovered.

Jason · « **Reply #52 on:** May 06, 2016, 12:34:42 PM »

I use a 21p revolution 4 blade prop. Took me 2 years of searching CL till I found a rev4 at a decent price!

carlsoncvx18 · « **Reply #53 on:** May 06, 2016, 01:09:11 PM »

Jason

What were using before the rev?

Any better performance with the rev?

I am currently running a merc big ear 21

Jason · « **Reply #54 on:** May 06, 2016, 06:40:46 PM »

It was a big ear 21. Not much better top end but hole shot is better.

Rosscoe · « **Reply #55 on:** May 07, 2016, 07:38:13 PM »

Quote from: Jason on May 06, 2016, 12:34:42 PM

I use a 21p revolution 4 blade prop. Took me 2 years of searching CL till I found a rev4 at a decent price!

How did you know this is what you wanted? Did you try one out before buying?
Looks like a 21 it will be. I took a gander at the dinged up aluminum one I got with the boat and its a 19. I figured that would not be ideal. Might have to be good enough for now.

Jason · « **Reply #56 on:** May 07, 2016, 07:45:11 PM »

19 is good especially with a full boat. Shawn liked one on his 18 and after reading about them sounded like a good prop for a 23.

Jason · « **Reply #57 on:** May 10, 2016, 10:27:26 PM »

Looks like this one has a rev 4 also.
http://brainerd.craigslist.org/boa/5578003625.html

nes-cv23 · « **Reply #58 on:** May 11, 2016, 06:20:19 AM »

I run a high five 21 p on mine and it seems to run real nice with good power for hole start and good speed. Also use a 23 p 5 blade to river cruise. I also used a big ear 19 for many years but after the new motor it handles the 21 great. And no tow hooks on mine also, just one hook on top for tubes and skiing

CVX Fever · « **Reply #59 on:** May 11, 2016, 11:14:42 AM »

Ross I have a 19P High 5 that came off my CVX18 you could try. Might be a little small, pitch wise for your 23 though.