Author Topic: Finally ! (Read 14304 times)

sledneck67 · « **Reply #20 on:** July 10, 2016, 10:08:04 PM »

Thanks,Gregg

Hyperacme · « **Reply #21 on:** July 21, 2016, 09:09:10 AM »

Was hoping the new relief valve / O-rings would cure the leak down problem on my tilt.
It actually made it worse ...

Temporary trailering fix, until fall.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #22 on:** July 21, 2016, 09:46:59 AM »

I would suggest a transom saver.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #23 on:** July 22, 2016, 07:42:59 AM »

I have a light bar right where the saver would attach to trailer ...

Plugcheck · « **Reply #24 on:** July 22, 2016, 10:12:26 AM »

There must be a workaround for that issue. Through bolt it on top of the trailer cross bar, plenty of clearance to the hull. Could machine a nice aluminum bracket with a lip to transfer the load into the trailer better? Maybe add a bend to the transom saver bar if it looks like it would hit the hull. Maybe a Y type brace than spans the 3 lamp light bar? Possibly a custom plate that incorporates both the light bar and a pocket for the transom saver. Except for pontoons, all my outboards have a transom saver bar, they are mandatory IMHO. Very good looking boat and trailer BTW, the woods blocks just seem out of place amongst all that beauty.

CVX Fever · « **Reply #25 on:** July 22, 2016, 11:47:12 AM »

Quote

I have a light bar right where the saver would attach to trailer ...

Get rid of the light bar put a couple of clearance lights on either side of the transom saver bracket. If your trailer isn't all LED now's a good time to upgrade the lighting!

Gregg I can spend your money all day long!

..............LOL

Seriously though I had one of the those transom saver deals when I had my CVX16.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #26 on:** July 22, 2016, 11:50:48 AM »

This was a temporary fix, until I can rebuild tilt cylinder.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #27 on:** July 22, 2016, 12:46:46 PM »

I like to spend others money as well

I would still recommend a transom saver even if the trim/tilt were working flawlessly.

dorelse · « **Reply #28 on:** July 22, 2016, 01:04:56 PM »

I personally think a transom saver is snake oil...the boating equivalent of Slick-50. Turns out Boat US magazine came to the conclusion of 'it depends'...

http://www.boatus.com/magazine/trailering/2012/march/transom-saver.asp

Hyperacme · « **Reply #29 on:** July 22, 2016, 02:40:59 PM »

WOW !
This is turning out as good as a "What wood ?" or "Which resin ?" thread !

Guess I thought that the location of support (with transom saver) on the LU, wasn't the right place for support, that it should be up on the transom / motor swivel ...

My old transom from G/C was two half inch sheets screwed together with four screws, tabbed and glassed over, where stringer attached to transom the drainage holes were over an inch above floor (lowest spot) and holes were not sealed.
The wood was rotted, with just fiberglass for support, the transom was still solid (passed the hang all your weight on it and try to make it flex / move test).
My new transom is two 3/4 inch interior ply sheets with biaxial between them, which I would guess is twice as strong as original design ...
Plus I only live 3 miles from Miss. river and less then 10 miles from St. Croix river, with one trip to Red Wing (under 40 miles) once a year.

Funny about Ranger wanting transom savers ... My Brother had a Ranger, he installed a radio in dash and kept the piece he cut out ... It was over a half inch thick ! That boat was built like a TANK !

I like this idea / design ...

Universal m-ywedge
http://www.m-ywedge.com/

Plugcheck · « **Reply #30 on:** July 22, 2016, 02:45:22 PM »

Follow someone on a rough road without one, does the transom and mounts really need that abuse? On pontoons, the drive is straight up since the skeg cannot possibly hit the ground at that height, so I generally do not run a transom saver on those. Considering the cost, it seems like cheap insurance to me, and helps to secure the OB. Just my $0.02

dorelse · « **Reply #31 on:** July 22, 2016, 02:48:48 PM »

Quote from: Plugcheck on July 22, 2016, 02:45:22 PM

Follow someone on a rough road without one, does the transom and mounts really need that abuse? On pontoons, the drive is straight up since the skeg cannot possibly hit the ground at that height, so I generally do not run a transom saver on those. Considering the cost, it seems like cheap insurance to me, and helps to secure the OB. Just my $0.02

That assumes that the transom saver doesn't inflict its own abuse on the transom & motor...which it does. Also, my $0.02.

WrenchWench · « **Reply #32 on:** July 22, 2016, 03:11:04 PM »

Do you not have trailer locks on your outboards?

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk

75starflight · « **Reply #33 on:** July 22, 2016, 03:16:04 PM »

I use a wedge kind of like that on phoenix's trim cylinders during transport even though they do not leak down any more. Its just piece of mind.

carlsoncvx18 · « **Reply #34 on:** July 22, 2016, 03:36:52 PM »

Sell it and get an I/O LoL

Hyperacme · « **Reply #35 on:** July 22, 2016, 05:02:50 PM »

"Sell it and get an I/O LoL"

Maybe something like this ...

1980 Glasstron/Carlson CVX18 California Special - $3500 (Cheboygan)
http://nmi.craigslist.org/boa/5688107987.html

"Do you not have trailer locks on your outboards?"

Locks ?

Hyperacme · « **Reply #36 on:** July 22, 2016, 05:19:44 PM »

"Follow someone on a rough road without one, does the transom and mounts really need that abuse? "

I understand your point ...
But, won't the same loads happen during regular boating ?
Jumping wakes at 50 + mph, pounding across choppy water ...
I know I get pretty beat up after a day on the water !

Trailers have some suspension ..

Plugcheck · « **Reply #37 on:** July 22, 2016, 06:25:07 PM »

I can see the difference of opinion, it's related primarily to distance. If I lived 10 minutes from decent water I probably would not use a transom saver. Here, our boats incur far more miles on trailers than on water. My brother has a ranger with rude 175 that when up is balanced like a see saw, without the rod it pounds back and forth on either side of the trim cylinders. Using the service stops when traveling beats them up so we don't use them trailering.

dorelse · « **Reply #38 on:** July 22, 2016, 07:08:25 PM »

Quote from: Plugcheck on July 22, 2016, 06:25:07 PM

I can see the difference of opinion, it's related primarily to distance. If I lived 10 minutes from decent water I probably would not use a transom saver. Here, our boats incur far more miles on trailers than on water. My brother has a ranger with rude 175 that when up is balanced like a see saw, without the rod it pounds back and forth on either side of the trim cylinders. Using the service stops when traveling beats them up so we don't use them trailering.

My concern is that you're tying 2 separate objects together (trailer & boat).

Jason · « **Reply #39 on:** July 22, 2016, 08:25:56 PM »

Quote from: dorelse on July 22, 2016, 07:08:25 PM

Quote from: Plugcheck on July 22, 2016, 06:25:07 PM
I can see the difference of opinion, it's related primarily to distance. If I lived 10 minutes from decent water I probably would not use a transom saver. Here, our boats incur far more miles on trailers than on water. My brother has a ranger with rude 175 that when up is balanced like a see saw, without the rod it pounds back and forth on either side of the trim cylinders. Using the service stops when traveling beats them up so we don't use them trailering.

My concern is that you're tying 2 separate objects together (trailer & boat).

The boat and trailer are tied together and there is no suspension that you are crossing over. I don't see the issue here so long has boat is strapped down tight. And the little bit of flexing it does see from trailer, bunks, boat, etc can't be any worse then the water abuse. I like the idea of a transom saver but I more think of it as as skeg saver in case you loose hydraulic pressure when towing. Has happened to me in the past! My I/o's get stops on the cylinders for this reason.