Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Rotek on August 31, 2022, 07:09:00 AM
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---RENAMED THE POST PREVIOUSLY NAMED "DASHBOARD" TO CV16-SS PROJECT---
---THIS IS WHERE I WILL POST THE RESTORATION PROGRESS---
Heya Glastroners!
I have just bought a project boat. It is a 1975 Carlson CV16-SS. The boat is not in great shape at this moment, but hey, I said it's a project boat :D
I will be posting photos here from time to time as the restoration progresses.
Unfortunately, the boat came without a dashboard. I have already done some research and it seems that the dash is impossible to find anywhere. So I am thinking about doing something totally different. The plan is to fabricate the dashboard from carbon fiber and not use standard analog gauges. The idea is to make a custom digital dashboard. I know that hard-core classic Glastron fans will not be too happy with this, but I think it can look really cool.
I will most probably use a super-wide 12.3" screen to display the complete dashboard with various gauges. If it turns out that one screen isn't wide enough to accommodate all the gauges I can add a second one to make the dashboard even wider.
I plan on doing the following digital gauges:
RPM
Speed
Battery Voltage
Temperature
Oil Pressure
Fuel Level
Trim Position
Can someone help me with identifying the signals/voltages/resistances that are usually coming to the standard gauges? For example, what voltage should I expect at the Temperature signal wire, or what kind of signal is normally at the RPM gauge?
Thanks
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Its your boat, do what you want. Biggest concern would be will the new digital dash be waterproof or at least water resistant? Gauges in boats are in a hostile environment, where even normal auto gauges will fail. RPM should be standard Kettering type ignition, assuming I/O Merc 140. Oil pressure is prob 10-80 ohms, temp likely 20-120. Trim is adjustable and somewhat objective, adjusted at the drive. I set mine(zero'd) by putting drive all the way in, then adjust the cup to read down. I scratch built a custom engine analyzer as a thesis project a long time ago. I calibrated oil pressure using a lab pressure gauge and master cylinder, the temperature sensor using boiling water. RPM calibrated with square wave generator, etc. Honestly it sounds like a great project, but in the end, I spend my time boating watching and enjoying the scenery and my company, not concentrating on dash(unless its a new engine of cours). Given that, insure you have at least two Idiot lights, one for the alternator, which also shows a loss of drive belt causing loss of coolant flow. The second idiot light is oil pressure, VDO makes a great sensor with both oil pressure gauge and idiot light outputs, so best of both worlds. Lastly, speedo can be accomplished with gps interface, but a pressure sensor on a pitot tube could work ok if you could research the pressure vrs speed chart. GPS is far more reliable, pitot's get kicked out of position, clogged by debris, and occasionally issues with tubing arise. Take pics, would love to see your progress.
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I think Shawn & Joe made a mold of a CV16SS dash.
I have seen where new boats have interface with engine and drive thru digital black magic .. LOL
Post pictures of your progress !
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Okay, so here are some photos of the boat as it was when I bought it.
Only 8 photos are allowed in one post, so the rest goes in the next one.
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Rest of the photos...
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I think Shawn & Joe made a mold of a CV16SS dash.
I have seen where new boats have interface with engine and drive thru digital black magic .. LOL
Post pictures of your progress !
How do I get in contact with Shawn and Joe?
Thanks
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I'm betting they saw the post and may comment back soon. Looking at the dash, the VDO's are automotive "cockpit" series, used them for 40 years in my VW projects. Great gauges, but probably not rated for water resistance. There are many on this site that have completed similar projects, a little digging into the old threads may be to your benefit. Thank you for saving a classic, post more progress photos as you go.
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This is what it should look like.. I might have one in good enough to use.. let me go through my stuff and see what I can find.. looks like your glove box has been filled in?
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This is what it should look like.. I might have one in good enough to use.. let me go through my stuff and see what I can find.. looks like your glove box has been filled in?
Oh that would be more than awesome! Please let me know if you can find it.
Yeah, the previous owner has filled in the glove box opening >:(. He had some other "fantastic" ideas all over the boat. Now I have to put that all back into the original condition.
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The mold is nearly complete, unfortunately it will not have the texture that the original vacuum formed plastic dash had, we were thinking either gelcoat or trying to do something with carbon fiber that might look cool.
Shawn?s CV 16 V8 project is also stalled so we just never got around to finishing the mold. If you can?t find a suitable replacement it could probably be finished at some point. If you need any photos or measurements of what the original hole looks like you could look at either Shawn?s or my thread on our CV 16 V8 rebuild or just let me know and I could look at mine.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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The mold is nearly complete, unfortunately it will not have the texture that the original vacuum formed plastic dash had, we were thinking either gelcoat or trying to do something with carbon fiber that might look cool.
Shawn?s CV 16 V8 project is also stalled so we just never got around to finishing the mold. If you can?t find a suitable replacement it could probably be finished at some point. If you need any photos or measurements of what the original hole looks like you could look at either Shawn?s or my thread on our CV 16 V8 rebuild or just let me know and I could look at mine.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
I don?t think the texture is a problem. The whole thing can be wrapped in leather or anything that has a nice texture. I actually think it would look even better than the original. What would you ask for the molded dashboard once you have the mold ready?
Cutting the glove box opening is easy, I?ll cut it once I have the dashboard.
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Okay, the work has finally started!
The plan was to first take the engine out of the boat, but the guy who was supposed to help me remove the engine got ill. I have decided I'll start the work anyway.
Today we have managed to separate the hull and the deck. I thought it will be much more difficult than it turned out. Also the foam from the flotation boxes is out. That was not that easy as I thought will be. It was a mess :)
Actually I think it will be much easier to take the engine out now when the hull and the deck are separated.
Here are some photos of the progress. The plan is to continue on weekend.
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More photos...
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So here's this week's progress. I have been grinding and removing the remains of the fiberglass strip that went over the hull-deck joint.
It was only one layer and it was not perfectly bonded with the hull. I had to remove it completely so I can put a new one once the hull and deck are put together. It doesn't look like much, but it took me a weekend to do that. I have swept all the dust from the boat to see what still needs to be grinded away. There isn't much left and that's good 😊 . If I?m lucky I should be able to remove the engine next weekend. Fingers crossed.
Once the engine is out of way I'll start removing the floor, stringer and transom and preparing everything for the new ones.
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Oh my !!! What a lucky boat to find someone like you! All the best ! You got a good start on it my friend! Can?t wait to see it progress! 👍🙋♂️🖖🏻
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Your progress is looking great.
on the dash mold, I have no idea what we would need to charge, what is your timeline for needing it and where are you located?
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Pro
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Thanks, it would go faster if I could work on it more often. I only have time on weekends :(
For the dash...
It is not super urgent as the boat is in the early stage of restoration. I guess I won't need the dash before February.
So, let me try to understand the situation...
You have the mold for the dash, but you don't have the dash done. You need to make one. Right?
If that is correct, then if you can find some time to make one till February it would be great. Let me know what is doable.
For the price, I really have no idea what would make sense.
BTW, I am in Croatia, but shipping is not an issue as my company works with DHL on a daily basis and I can organize the pickup at any location easily. You would only have to pack it in a decent box and print out the labels that the DHL would send to your email. Once the package is ready the courier will come and pick it up.
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Is there a service manual for the Volvo Penta 280 outdrive available for download somewhere on this forum?
I know I?ve seen some manuals somewhere, but I can't find the thread now.
Thanks
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Here's today's progress...
Started the engine removal even though I couldn't get the crane borrowed. Today we have managed to free the engine. Next week I'll have the crane here so I'll be able to get the engine out of the boat finally. Once I get rid of the engine and the outdrive I can start cutting the floor and transom.
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Some Volvo info here ...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=9117.0
I can email you a Volvo AQ270 B - C - D workshop manual, it's on PDF and is 16 megs.
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Does anybody have a glovebox for the CV16 and wants to sell it?
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Finally got the engine out! Ooooh yeah!
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As soon as the engine and the outdrive were out of the way the transom was removed.
It was pretty much rotten and it came out in pieces. The wood remainings were sanded away all the way to the fiberglass.
I was really surprised that the cavities behind the transom and between the hull were just left empty. I always thought it was all filled with something...
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Next was the floor.
We have first cut a small test opening around the center of the boat just to check how it looks inside.
This helped to plan the steps for removing the floor completely...
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Before I had a chance to take a photo of the work in progress, the whole floor was gone! ;D
The floor was not too bad, a bit of rot here and there, but not too bad at all.
The stringer is out too. It wasn't rotten too bad, but it had to go. The good thing is that we have managed to pull the stringer out in one piece so I'll use it as a template for cutting the new one.
I am amazed how light the hull actually is, now when everything else is gone!
Now more sanding to clean up everything...
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You could try some of the Glastron Facebook groups for glove box ..
You might be able to make something out of a gallon oil jug bottom or other plastic container.
Your making great progress .. Keep up the good work !
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Thanks.
First I need to get the dash. That will give me some clue about the dimension, shape and exact position for the glove box.
I really hope to get that molded dash at some point.
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Nice work!! Moving along quickly.
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It is amazing how flexible the hulls are when all the stringers and floors are removed. As a suggestion I would consider slipping the top back on temporarily before installing the stringers and floors, or at least provide some bracing to insure the top can slip back on correctly. Great job so far, you are making tremendous progress
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Hmm, that's actually very smart. I might put the deck back on when installing the floor. We'll see how everything goes.
In this boat there is only one stringer and the transom, and no additional ribs or any other wooden structures.
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Here's the update from the last two weeks. I got really stuck at work and can't put too much work into the boat right now. But I made a deal with a friend who is experienced with boat repairs so he is doing most of the work now. I jump in on weekends.
We had to close a million rivet holes around the hull edge.
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Next I wanted to completely close the cutout on the transom.
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I really wanted to do all the wood replacement with Coosa, but unfortunately I can't buy it anywhere here in Croatia.
I was really disappointed when I realized that. But what can I do? The work needs to be done somehow. I bought a nice piece of silver fir and we cut it to shape using the leftovers from the original stringer as a template. It turned out really nice. I believe the original stringer was also made of something like fir wood.
The stringer is now bonded to the hull with thickened resin. A nice fillet around the bottom edge is formed. I'm happy with the overall result.
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As I already said, I couldn't get coosa, so a marine-grade plywood is used for the new transom and floor.
I got 15mm plywood and will glue two together to get 30mm for the transom. The original transom was also 30mm thick.
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GREAT PROGRESS !
Early version had rivets, later versions had screws for hull to deck & rub rail.
There was a piece of wood glassed in around inner hull for support ..
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Interesting. Do you think I should also add the wood piece? Is that a better way of joining the hull and deck?
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Not sure when Glastron started screwing deck to hull, maybe 1973 or 1974.
Would be easier then riveting ..
It's up to you ..
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I like to add a strip of plywood to contain the screws, in most cases just some good construction adhesive and clamps overnight will be good. I like to tape the rub rail in place and use a marker to identify the holes for the rub rails. Then I remove it and put countersunk screws in between those previously made marks. When you actually place the top use some adhesive/sealant in the mounting edges. Great progress BTW
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Yeah, I like that. I think that's easier and better than rivets.
Just not sure how to do the joint above the transom because there is no overlap between hull and deck. It was all bonded with a lot of thickened resin and rivets through the top of the deck and into the hull.
Any suggestions?
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Add wood there as well and put a rub rail over it? Or maybe a decorative strip? Add a lip to the top section? Just some ideas.
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Mine was a CV16 outboard .. but same stern trim .. almost ..
I used 3M 4200 between gap on hull to deck stern seam.
Also used 3M 4200 under trim pieces on stern
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So no rivets or screws at all?
I see there are some holes on top too. I guess those are for the trim rivets?
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Was not attached at stern by screws or rivets.
Yes .. holes were for trim rivets.
Joe & Shawn are redoing CV16V8's .
Should be some pictures of stern to deck ..
1976 CV 16 V8 Complete Rebuild (Shawn)
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=8016.0
CV16 V8 restoration (Joe)
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=8488.0
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Thanks, a lot of interesting photos there.
BTW, what's going on with Shawn's project? The last post was more than 2 years ago. Was the boat ever finished?
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Unfortunately, we both kind of stalled out and got involved with other projects at the same time.
Shawn has the structure in his but the hull is still split. I never split mine, all the structural material is in, it?s just waiting to get finished maybe this winter.
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Ah, too bad the projects stalled. It seemed like everything was going smooth. I really hope to see you guys continue. Those V8 CV16's are really something.
BTW, do you have any update about the molded dash?
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I have just realized that I have absolutely no idea where should the battery be placed in the CV16-SS.
Does anyone have a photo or drawing of the battery position in this boat?
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I can find a picture of mine later but here is where it was in your boat. The wood panel that goes in front of that is split with a hinge so you can slide it forward and out.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20221213/c2b8f4a4f51b3a5c3a286fac79b53c42.jpg)
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OK, got it. Thanks a lot Jason!
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Here is what the platform looks like with a Mercruiser setup. Not sure if Volvo was much different but I am sure you can create something.
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Here goes this week's progress. I'd say a lot has been done 8).
First we have bonded the two 15mm plywood boards to get the required transom thickness. Then the transom got couple of layers of glass matt.
While waiting for the transom to cure, the hull that will be under the floor got the nice two coats of "liquid plastic" to make sure it is 100% waterproof, if any water ever gets under the floor. The floor also got the two layers of liquid plastic. Then I realized I don?t want that stuff on the top surface of the stringer, so we had to sand it away :D .
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Then the transom was put in place and bonded with thickened resin.
Once it cured the expanding PU foam is injected in the hollow spaces behind the transom on the left and right side. Originally that was left empty, but I thought it will be better to fill it with the foam. Looking good!
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The time to lay down the floor has come. Then I thought we should add some reinforcement under the engine.
Once that cured, the floor is laid down on the thickened resin around the edge and on the stringer. I feel this is super strong.
Added the engine mounts , and then everything glassed over.
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Sanded everything down to get the smoother finish. I don't know if that makes any sense, but I feel better now when it is smooth.
Then we built the boxes for the foam blocks. Then everything is glasse dover and left to cure till tomorrow.
More progress to come...
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Not sure about your part of the world .. but in USA the parts and design of a Mercruiser are better then the old Volvo systems.
More HP and better tilt & trim ..
Other then that .. your doing a fantastic job on your rebuild !
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You're making amazing progress.
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That is an incredible amount of work for a week. Not sure I could get that much done in a month. Tremendous progress, wish i had your energy. Curious to jnow why you ground the top of the stringer? Was it to "bond" the floor to it with adhesive?
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" Was it to "bond" the floor to it with adhesive? "
LOL .. 3M 5200 will bond teflon to butter ..
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Having torn out several rotten stringers/floors in the past I've noticed the screws through the floor into the stringers seem to form a path for water to enter and rot the stringer/floor. Was thinking just bond that stringer to the floor with adhesive(5200) without screws? If so I'd guess the grey material on the stringer would be left intact. What product is that grey "paint" you used, I really like the look, wondering if the product is available in USA?
BTW Gregg, I'm still laughing at the Teflon to butter comments.
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One more thing, most folks have used a closed cell foam in the bilge not only as flotation but also as a means to keep the wood dry. The original Glastron flotation foam was open cell, have torn out lots of that that held water and contributed to rot.
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" Was it to "bond" the floor to it with adhesive? "
LOL .. 3M 5200 will bond teflon to butter ..
I'm sorry if I used the word "bond" incorrectly :-[
The floor was laid down onto the thickened resin, same as the stringer.
Does that count as "bonded"?
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Having torn out several rotten stringers/floors in the past I've noticed the screws through the floor into the stringers seem to form a path for water to enter and rot the stringer/floor. Was thinking just bond that stringer to the floor with adhesive(5200) without screws? If so I'd guess the grey material on the stringer would be left intact. What product is that grey "paint" you used, I really like the look, wondering if the product is available in USA?
BTW Gregg, I'm still laughing at the Teflon to butter comments.
I understand what you are saying. Yeah, we did put a couple of screws through the floor into the stringer. I'm not the happiest about that, but I wanted to be 100% sure the floor is pressed firmly against the stringer while the resin was curing.
The gray material is what we locally call "liquid plastic" because it feels like plastic when dry. Here is the photo of the product.
It is a German made and we can get it locally. Here's the link to the product page:
https://www.duefa.de/produkte/bodenbeschichtungen/kunststoff-fluessig (https://www.duefa.de/produkte/bodenbeschichtungen/kunststoff-fluessig)
I stupidly painted the stringer top surface with it and then realized that it might be a problem for the thickened resin to adhere to it. So the stringer top was sanded to remove the paint before applying the thickened resin.
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One more thing, most folks have used a closed cell foam in the bilge not only as flotation but also as a means to keep the wood dry. The original Glastron flotation foam was open cell, have torn out lots of that that held water and contributed to rot.
I used Sika Boom Low expansion one component foam. Honestly I'm not sure if it is a closed cell or not. Here's the photo of the product.
When I was removing the flotation boxes the foam was dry. But when we have torn out the floor I have found some preformed/precut foam pieces which were soaking wet. I'm not sure if they have dried out even now after a couple of weeks laying around the workshop. I'll check tomorrow to see if those foam pieces are still wet. I decided I will not put any form of flotation under the floor as it will only hold the potential water.
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I think most Glastron's had the 2 x 4 shaped foam logs in hull.
Mine were dry.
Foam in side boxes were also dry.
But left side of that gap between transom wood and hull fiberglass had water get in and rot left side of transom.
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Yes, that is exactly what I have found under the floor.
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Here's the update after a few weeks.
All the work on the inside of the hull is done for now, new stringer, new transom, new floor. All glassed over and sanded to the nice smooth finish.
Today we have turned over the hull so the work on the bottom can start. It's been quite an interesting task turning it over, but we have managed to do it without doing any damage to the hull. I'm super proud of that 8) .
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First day of bottom sanding...
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I have a question about the metal flake.
How much do I need for the whole boat? I mean, not the whole boat but the parts that need to go in metal flake.
Also, how much of the flake should I mix into the clear?
Which nozzle size is best to use when spraying?
Thanks a lot for any help :)
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Jeff did a Timmi a few years ago and should have some basic info ..
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=8136.0
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If you're using gelcoat, you can use flake in the clear or use a flake gun. If using automotive clear, use a flake gun. I learned the hard way that auto clear needs a small tip, like a 1. 2 or 1.3, which my flake didnt pass through, so I used a 2.0 tip. Another issue is auto clear is meant to flow out, flake lays down as well. The boat looks great, but only at certain angles. A flake gun will stick the flake at all different angles. Then lay down several more coats to seal it all up. I used about 10 ounces of flake. Joe used gel on a 1900 with flake that came out nicely.
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these are the nots i found from when i did the 1900
notes from the workshop some of us attended at shipwerck boat works (they do restorations with gel)
2.5 tip for flake
shoot darker flake over black (makes it pop)
shoot all flake and clear at one time (dont let it fully cure between any coats)
mix flake aprox 40% for darker colors
apply flake in thinner coats to avoid pushing it (looks like the flake has orange peel inside the clear)
5 to 6 coats of clear
my notes, i will add that i intend to use more flake when i do the CV16V8 it will be purple flake over black
Apr 26, put red gel / flake on the transom, and under the swim platform while it was up in the air (it may have been better to just do it with the rest)
May 14, after taping off the part that will be flake i shot 2 coats of red gel 2 coats to be (20% duratec and 2% MEKP). other than hitting a few rough spots i did not sand it (i think i should have taken the orange peel out).
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flake, i shot this with an inexpensive HVLP gun with a 2.5 tip
May 17, I mixed 8 batches each 10 oz clear gel, 2 oz duratec additive, and 3 tablespoons + 2 teaspoons of each .015 and .025 square flake, and 7CC MEKP.
Used 5 the first time around, went back over it again with just under 3.
May 22, one more coat of flake as above, then 3 coats of clear, each batch (10 oz clear gel, 2 oz duratec additive, and 7CC MEKP). i shot just over a gal and the clear was shot with a 2.3 tip.
Jun 7, sanded with 220, but could not sand orange peel out without hitting flake (there are way too many silver specs, guess i will have to live with that)
Jul 11, shot 8 batches of clear on (2 coats) using the 2.5 tip.
Jul 14, shot 1 more coat of clear mixed as above, then 1 coat with gel/duratec mixed at 50/50 with wax
that is the end of shooting clear.
i think Jeff used more flake that this as well, im sure he will comment.
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I'm am not doing it with the gel but with the PU based acrylic paint.
OK, so how much flakes should I buy in total?
I'm not sure if I understood correctly here, is it 5 tablespoons (3 tablespoons .015 and 2 tablespoons .025) of flake into 10 oz of clear? Is that correct? Should I also use 2.5 tip for the acrylic, same as for the gel?
I know these questions are probably annoying already, but I don't want to mess up even before I start spraying :)
Thanks
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Your use it the .025 flake that is huge. I do some research on the tip size. Most of the flake used was .015 or .008. In size. If your using a base with clear I would apply a coat of clear in a 3?x3? area and then spray the flake on with a flake gun. Complete the whole area to be flaked that way. Then come back with how ever many coats of clear it takes to bury it. Best to have 2 people.
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Your use it the .025 flake that is huge. I do some research on the tip size. Most of the flake used was .015 or .008. In size. If your using a base with clear I would apply a coat of clear in a 3?x3? area and then spray the flake on with a flake gun. Complete the whole area to be flaked that way. Then come back with how ever many coats of clear it takes to bury it. Best to have 2 people.
So you're saying that original was done with a mix of .008 and .015 size?
How much should I get in total?
Thanks
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sorry i missed the part about using paint, disregard all them words i posted.
Shawn did his 23 with automotive paint/clear he used a flake gun to put the flake on wet clear like Mike mentioned.
link to the thread
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=3740.msg101992#msg101992
he had over a pound of flake, did not say how much he used, but i think a 1 pound would do a cv16 that way
he was using .015 hex from roth,
he did comment that he liked the look of his 18 better, he mixed the same flake with the clear
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Using a flake gun will use more flake than incorporating it directly into the clear, some will just bounce off(overspray). When it comes time to paint the Timi, I want to use an intercoat clear, just a base coat without pigment to lay the flake on. Then I can lay the clear on with the standard 1.2mm tip and let the clear flow out as it was designed to do.
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Hear is .015 square flake done with gel coat. I took a loop and and a dial micrometer and measured it was a 1984 intimidator. It has a black base and the orange is strictly flake.
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Now you're just showing off Jeff-Ha! That Timi is even more gorgeous in person, a beautiful resto. I shot the picture of it in the calendar.
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Just trying to show what .015 flake is like. .025 cannot remember but I think it is almost twice the size of .015.
Not sure how orignal he wants to keep it. But there is a difference in the octagon and square flake in terms of look.
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I used hex .015 flake, but it laid down flat as the clear flowed out. Never used gelcoat, but may consider it see how Jeff and Joes gelcoat projects have turned out
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Hey Jeff,
Your work is awesome!
I have found this photo which shows that the .008 size is actually the closest to the original.
Also, I have contacted Roth guys and they too think that the .008 is the right size.
I'm not sure what to choose now... .025 or .008 ???
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I used hex .015 flake, but it laid down flat as the clear flowed out. Never used gelcoat, but may consider it see how Jeff and Joes gelcoat projects have turned out
Not bad at all, but it seems like you could do a couple more layers of flake to get better saturation. Maybe this photo doesn't show it in the best light?
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This is the product I used, available from TCP Global. Thinking about using it on the Timi to make the blue line separating to red metalflake from the white
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So, here's the update after a few weeks. It's not that we haven't been working on a boat, but there was not much to show, so I was collecting the photos for the post.
Three coats of 2k PU primer have been shot with 320 grit wet sanding between the layers, and then two layers of polyurethane paint. Now waiting for a couple of days for it to fully cure before 1000, 1500 and 2000 grit wet sanding and buffing.
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One little side project...
The bow u-bolt plate was totally corroded and the chrome plating has started to peel off. Unfortunately I didn't take the photo of it before sanding.
Here it is sanded and polished clean. I have sent it to chrome plating. should get it back next week. Will post a photo when I receive it back.
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While waiting for the painted hull to cure we started the work on the deck.
The previous owner painted it with some horrible paint and removing it is a pain in the ass! At first we tried just sanding it off, but quickly realised it's not going to work. I got the paint stripper and applied a thick layer over the painted area. It took about an hour for it to eat through the damn paint. Then a painstaking job of scraping the paint with a scraper got us to this.
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We have found something really weird under the paint! Look at these photos. What is this? I have never seen this. I'm not sure what it actually was. Almost like it was only a feature in the mold. It is the same colour as the rest of the apricot colour metal flake, but the shape and the lines are clearly visible. Can someone help me determine what it is and if that is the original or something done after? If that is the original paint scheme I might want to keep it, but if that's something someone did afterwards I'm going to ignore it and do the "standard" paint scheme.
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Never seen one like that ..
Guessing it was done by owner.
Almost all CV's have foam blocks under front deck that affect top gel.
Hard to see .. but has "dips" in deck
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Yeah, mine has the foam blocks too. And the dips are here as well, but not so pronounced as in your pics. I'll try to fill them and send everything flat.
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The mold is nearly complete, unfortunately it will not have the texture that the original vacuum formed plastic dash had, we were thinking either gelcoat or trying to do something with carbon fiber that might look cool.
Shawn?s CV 16 V8 project is also stalled so we just never got around to finishing the mold. If you can?t find a suitable replacement it could probably be finished at some point. If you need any photos or measurements of what the original hole looks like you could look at either Shawn?s or my thread on our CV 16 V8 rebuild or just let me know and I could look at mine.
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How about that mold? Is it ready? I'm getting to the point I have to make some decisions about the dash. I'd really appreciate if you could make a dash for me. How much would you ask for it?
Thanks
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I will get the mold from Shawn this week and take a look and see what else needs to be done before we can use it
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Oh man, that would be super awesome!
Many thanks.
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Looking pretty good so far. I got to ask, why didnt you do more fiberglass repairs and fair out the transom where the motor mounts up. I know you don't see it but there looks like some significant fiberglass loss there. It would drive me crazy knowing it was still there.
Update/Edit
OMG I think I'm an idiot, but I will leave this post up anyhow. For some reason I forgot this was not an outboard boat. Forgive my temporary ignorance.
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Most folks finish the transom first, then cutout the "football". This is done on purpose for several reasons, the first is to ensure everything is nice and flat. Another reason is changing over from volvo to merc, and a third would be if you were changing the x dimension. Project looks great!
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Yeah, this part will be cut out and does not matter.
At this moment I am still not sure if I'm going to stick with Volvo or change to Merc or something else.
But, honestly, it really makes me wanna puke every time I look at it ;D even though I know it will be gone.
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Progress update...
Working on the deck part. An incredible amount of holes scratches and other damages require a lot of time to patch, fill and sand. But we are moving forward.
I decided to patch all the gauge holes so I can decide what I will install later.
Also patched the stupid cutout for the radio that the previous owner did in front of the passenger seat.
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Getting the bow nice and smooth is a hard work. And a dirty one too ;D.
Finally the first coat of primer! It showed all the details we missed to fill and smooth. More sanding...
I think we got the most of the "waves" smoothed out.
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Sanded everything smooth and back to filling the minor details before the next coat of primer.
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Another little update.
The Bow eye part came back from chrome plating. Looks like new! I like it.
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Looks great ..
OK .. don't know if this is a issue or not ..
Hard to find old Glastron bilge vents.
Could you or should you modify hole's / openings for a newer style chrome / stainless steel vent ?
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I have 2 sets of vents already.
There is a plastic part that goes under the "chrome" vent and it actually holds the air hoses. I'll post a photo later.
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OK .. Have heard original vents are hard to find ..
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You're right, I was buying wherever they appeared 8)
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I was looking at your picture of the front of your boat and thought this may have been what caused it. I know on my intimadator where the original decal was on the front you could see the outline, it was slightly raised.
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I was looking at your picture of the front of your boat and thought this may have been what caused it. I know on my intimadator where the original decal was on the front you could see the outline, it was slightly raised.
Yeah, I think you might be right. I guess the decal "protected" the gelcoat under, so once removed the gelcoat which was covered by decal shows as new and maybe even a bit higher than the rest. I don't see the other way it could be done.
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Here's how the patched, filled and smoothed dashboard looks like.
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Started the work on the engine cover.
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So, here's the side vent underplate. I only have this one and it is totally unusable. It has cracks all over and the plastic is really brittle.
You can see how it sits under the vent.
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As the one underplate I have is in really bad condition and I need two, one for each side, I have decided to reconstruct it in Solidworks. I will 3D print it on the SLS printer in Nylon12 material.
I am posting the files here if anyone else needs them.
Here is the .STEP file if you want to CNC it or do some modifications, and .STL file so you can use it for 3D printing.
If the part is too large for the 3D printer I can also separate it into two smaller parts which can be glued together after printing.
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Nice work, and kind of you to offer the digital files to others to make their own. I had a similar issue, the old plastic was broken and brittle. I made mine from 18g aluminum panel, the hose connections were downspout/gutter connectors. If you are going for an all original look, i agree yours is the way to go .
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Added your Files and info to " Vendor and Repair Resources " section ..
Thanks for sharing 8)
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Yeeey! Just received the package from Roth Metal Flake!
Can't wait to see how it turns out on the boat!!!
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I used the bigger flake on the timi and it turned out great! Pictures just can?t catch all the sparkle. I used about a pound, When I do the 23 I?m going to put it on even heavier. Love that flake!
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Yeah, now I'm thinking I should have bought the .015 size instead of .008.
But in this photo it seemed like the .008 was the right size. Damn, now I'm in doubt :(
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When in doubt? go bigger?. The 8 will look good but I?d use the 15? just get the same color in 15 and mix it with the 8? unless your trying to make a contour show boat, use what you like! It?s your boat. might want to get one of Roths flake bummer spray gun also. Works great with no plugging up. This orange flake is .008 on top then .015 and monster .025. On the edge you can see the difference.
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Well, here is the mold.
Need to clean up where the switch, the ignition switch and the gauges are so that finished Dash will pop out a little easier, then there?s one corner that got broke taking it off of the original positive.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230303/41bdd6c71d4d317f496a3283a3fd5d84.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230303/27e39ac0478b021dadf40118f7994e76.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230303/6ed198b47021826fcf3270fbdb9fb77a.jpg)
I should be able to work out this weekend
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Here's the project update after a couple of weeks of no work.
This was the most stressful day, I have to be honest. Spraying the metal flake for the first time. Watched a ton of videos with explanations, but still, I was terrified :D
So, first goes the black base coat...
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Then the first coat of metal flake...
...so far so good :D
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The second coat of metal flake...
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I felt like the black was still a bit too visible and I wanted more metal flake saturation, so here's the result after the third coat.
After the 3 coats of metal flake we sprayed 2 coats of clear coat and that was it for today.
Tomorrow sanding and more coats of clear.
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Looks .. from pictures .. like apricot .. Beautiful 8)
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Actually it is "Tropi Cali" from Roth Flake. But yeah, it is as close as I could get to the original apricot.
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Took me 4 coats of clear with flake and 10-12 coats of clear with duratec on top of the 4 coats.
You have a lot of sanding ahead of you. Well worth it in the end.
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I felt the same way when I did the 1900.
That looks fantastic !
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Yeah you're right, I am becoming aware of that ;D
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Started with masking the sides of the hull and transom for black basecoat.
I got the professional grade 6mm elastic masking tape to be able to do the curved contours. This thing works awesome.
Black basecoat turned out pretty good.
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And then again masking around the black for the metal flake.
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It's metal flake time!
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This looks great! I'm happy :)
Ready for many layers of clearcoat and sanding.
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While the hull is drying we moved on to the engine cover.
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Beautiful !
I think ya nailed it !
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What are you using for product. Gel or paint?
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What are you using for product. Gel or paint?
Paint