Post by: awc105 on April 17, 2020, 07:29:30 PM
I was finally able to gather all the pictures I have taken on this project up until now. Here is a link to the album: https://photos.app.goo.gl/cPjG8hFVWJQfEm9WA (https://photos.app.goo.gl/cPjG8hFVWJQfEm9WA)
There is approx. 750 photos in there currently, some videos too.
For the power plant I decided to keep it period correct so I found 70's 888 parts boat (my dad has decided to restore that one, it was a slickcraft SS204). The guy I bought the parts boat from also happened to have a freshly rebuilt 302 (I'm a Ford guy anyway) that he threw in on the deal. So basically I got a whole 888 drive system with an extra rebuilt engine for $600.
It wasn't so easy though, this winter I wanted to get the spare engine all setup and run so I spent some time doing that and finding many disappointing things. Whoever rebuilt it must have just slapped it together because it was missing the oil pump driveshaft, the exhaust riser gaskets and block off plates, the fuel pump was bad, and they installed the thrust bearing in the wrong spot.
Anyways I fixed all those problems and re-torqued everything, broke it in, and it runs pretty great now.
As of right now the engine is in and resting on it's new mounts, I wanted to mach up the engine in there to make sure my new engine mounts were correct. I used 7 laminated layers of 3/4" plywood for the mounts.
The deck is installed and the foam has been poured underneath.
As of this week I replace the dash cross support, the original was broken in two
Today I glued in the port side stiffener, a piece of 1/2" plywood. The original one was about 60% rotted, but the remaining 40% was a pain to remove... I was concerned the new plywood pieces wouldn't form to the curve very well, but they did just fine.
Anyways, I'm excited to share the rest of the journey!
Post by: fireman24mn on April 18, 2020, 10:40:21 AM
Post by: awc105 on April 19, 2020, 11:43:57 AM
Post by: awc105 on April 19, 2020, 07:21:02 PM
Before I pulled the engine back out I messed around with coupler alignment just to see what it was like and get a rough idea what I was in for on final assembly, I've got a lot of experience with a 4 cyl, but the v8 setup was new to me. After a half an hour or so I got it to go in with one finger so that was a good feeling. Interestingly enough the adjustment bolts fit a 33mm socket perfectly.
Besides that it was a beautiful day here, just a bit of wind but sunny and almost 60!
Post by: Hyperacme on April 19, 2020, 07:46:47 PM
Post by: thedeuceman on April 19, 2020, 08:43:24 PM
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Post by: thedeuceman on April 19, 2020, 08:51:06 PM
i am loosing the foam and making storage there, i hope to find room in front of the motor on the starboard side for the trim pump.
another odd thing, ours did not have a blower in it either.
Post by: awc105 on April 21, 2020, 09:53:54 AM
I think I will be doing the same, making storage on either side. Ah yes, the volvo trim system was electric I think? I'm going try to fit the battery and trim pump up under there too, if it doesn't fit I'll probably end up doing the same. Seems like not having a blower would be against some sort of CG regulation? Then again I'm sure regulations weren't as strict back then. I also found it interesting that they just embedded the vent tubing and everything else in foam...
Post by: awc105 on April 21, 2020, 06:32:28 PM
A bunch more fiberglass materials, resin, 1708, mixing cups etc..but also some more interesting purchases.
I was tired of those cheap plastic pitots you normally get with a speedometer kit. I found this really nice adjustable stainless steel one for a pretty good price that includes a mounting bracket. They also sell a hinged bracket as well, which I will probably end up getting too.
I also ordered a refurbished Holley 4160 from ebasicpower. I found the correct 4V intake, PCV spacer, and throttle cable bracket on ebay. My flame arrestor was pretty rough looking so I found a new one of those too, only $32 and its a Barbron brand one just like the original from the mercruiser factory. They had several heights, but I bought the 3" tall one.
As far as work on the the boat, I have glued in some resin coated wood backing pieces around the perimeter of the engine opening, this will be so I can reattach the factory engine cover flanges to make it look pseudo-factory-esque. With a bit of glass work and fairing anyway haha
Sadly we got a bit of snow here today too...
Post by: awc105 on April 21, 2020, 06:33:02 PM
Post by: Scott in nh on April 22, 2020, 12:33:51 PM
Post by: awc105 on April 22, 2020, 01:27:17 PM
Here's a link to the exact one I purchased, they have several other options too: https://www.cpperformance.com/p-14176-5-34-x-3-high-flame-arrestor-aluminum.aspx (https://www.cpperformance.com/p-14176-5-34-x-3-high-flame-arrestor-aluminum.aspx)
Post by: awc105 on April 23, 2020, 09:29:04 AM
Post by: dorelse on April 23, 2020, 12:38:56 PM
Post by: thedeuceman on April 23, 2020, 12:42:55 PM
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Post by: dorelse on April 23, 2020, 02:13:05 PM
So the V8 will fit
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Ah! I couldn't wrap my head around why...duh. Cool!
Post by: awc105 on April 23, 2020, 06:52:17 PM
Glued on the port side flange today, added some peanut butter filleting underneath the starboard side tonight, then I'll put a layer of 1708 over it, repeat on the port side and then focus on the top, that's where the real work begins...
Also took a second to scrape away some of the extra sun crunchified artificial burl wood decals on the sides, I think I see a peek at the original finish under there haha
In other news, my starboard side exhaust manifold looks to have been repaired at one point because out of the corner of my eye I spotted something that didn't look right, got a closer look and yep, jb weld. Since the other side had already been replaced with a much higher quality (and heavier...) osco manifold, I decided to find the matching starboard side one, osco #5603 and just by luck I scored one on ebay, brand new!
Post by: awc105 on April 24, 2020, 09:32:42 PM
I figured I'd post it here in case it could help anyone out:)
I can also supply a PDF version if needed.
Post by: Plugcheck on April 24, 2020, 09:58:43 PM
Post by: awc105 on April 24, 2020, 10:16:29 PM
Post by: awc105 on April 25, 2020, 04:56:02 PM
Post by: awc105 on April 25, 2020, 04:56:33 PM
Post by: awc105 on April 25, 2020, 08:23:51 PM
Post by: Hyperacme on April 25, 2020, 08:36:06 PM
Added to "CV Seats / Dash / Console" thread ...
Post by: awc105 on April 25, 2020, 10:09:17 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on April 26, 2020, 08:23:55 AM
Post by: awc105 on April 26, 2020, 10:00:53 AM
Post by: thedeuceman on April 26, 2020, 10:01:49 AM
i agree with Mike on the "tether switch" i run on the river and these little things really get tossed around. i should put one in the BalHarber as well.
an added comment on the oil pr switch, though i can see how that would work i prob would not tie the coil to that circuit (personal opinion).
i have electric pumps in both the BalHarhor and the 1900 i sold to the kids, both in series with the oil pr switch, although i added a relay so the ig ckt runs a relay so the pump gets full voltage (you mentioned a relay i assume you are doing the same) and yes when the carb is dry it takes lots of cranking.
this year i plan to add another relay to bypass the oil pr sw while cranking so the fuel pump runs with the starter.
i used the relay because i run the carter vane pumps and they draw a fair amount of current.
also i like yer attention to detail, and that you went "old school ford"
Post by: Plugcheck on April 26, 2020, 01:19:47 PM
https://vwparts.aircooled.net/v/vspfiles/photos/321-906-059C-2.jpg?v-cache=1397903792
Post by: Plugcheck on April 26, 2020, 01:23:36 PM
https://vwparts.aircooled.net/Electric-Fuel-Pump-Relay-321-906-059C-p/321-906-059c.htm
Post by: awc105 on April 26, 2020, 03:50:19 PM
And thanks! I'm an EE for a living so I draw a lot of schematics haha and old school Ford all the way:)
Changes I will make will be:
1. Remove coil circuit from oil pressure safety switch, I agree with thedeuceman on that one.
2. Place tether safety switch between ignition switch and coil,choke circuit.
3. Replace standard relay with a fuel pump relay that has a time delay and ignition pulse monitoring
Plugcheck do you know if they make a socketed base for that relay?
I'm still not sure whether I'll actually need an electric fuel pump, but I figured I might as well put it in the design at this stage so I'll be all set when the time comes.
In other news I spent some time today sanding/shaping the glass I laid last night. The HDPE I was using as a backing worked great! It popped right off no sweat. I'm pretty happy with the results so far, I think once its faired in it will look indistinguishable. Beyond that I laid a strip of glass all along the line where the flange and cap butt together, the whole thing should be pretty strong now.
It's a pretty beautiful day in SW Michigan right now, sunny and the wind has died down!
Post by: awc105 on April 26, 2020, 03:50:53 PM
Post by: awc105 on April 26, 2020, 03:56:00 PM
Post by: awc105 on April 26, 2020, 04:52:45 PM
https://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Products/Fuel_Pump.html (https://www.revolutionelectronics.com/Products/Fuel_Pump.html)
Post by: awc105 on April 26, 2020, 08:36:48 PM
Post by: awc105 on April 28, 2020, 10:06:52 PM
I got an order of hardware today from Mcmaster, a nice polished stainless bolt for the flame arrestor, along with a nice rubber washer, looks pretty clean. I also got the studs and nuts for mounting the carb, front was 2 1/2" long and the back was 3" I also got the bolts for my new exhaust manifold, 1/8" NPT petcock drains, and a nice Band-Style Hose clamp for the engine harness connector. Devils in the details...
My Current list of things to do is:
1. Finish the work on reattaching the flanges
2. Build the uprights that box in the the stern on both sides of the engine, with enough room for the battery and trim pump on the starboard side and other storage on the port side. I would also like to incorporate some floatation foam just for good measure, as well as the fume venting blower and tubing.
3. Build the fuel tank shelf, bow support, and ski locker. Considering getting a larger fuel tank but I haven't measured for how much bigger I can go, currently it's only 17 gallons
4. Prep the hull for gelcoat
5. Gelcoat
Hopefully this is where I'll be by the end of summer:)
Post by: demian5 on April 30, 2020, 11:30:09 AM
Post by: awc105 on April 30, 2020, 07:20:04 PM
Currently there is a little over 1/4" of clearance on both sides of the engine with the flanges on. The only exception is the dipstick which will need to be re-positioned. If I end up needing a bit more clearance I have room to trim down the flange a bit, but it does fit pretty nicely currently.
Post by: awc105 on May 09, 2020, 09:03:50 PM
I finished roughing in the engine opening, when I'm ready to prep for gelcoat I'll give it more work but for now I decided to move on. On a note about gelcoat, anyone have any suggestions for removing the boat from the trailer and supporting it? It's not super heavy, I'd estimate the whole thing is maybe 400-500 lbs...I considered buying boat stands and blocks but they're way too expensive.
Went about installing some platforms for the trim pump and battery to sit on, once they're in I'll look at boxing in both sides, using images provided by members of the forum and doing some digging I was able to piece together what it's supposed to look like back there, with a few modifications of course! Today I got the pieces transferred from the foam pattern to plywood, cut them out, and put a coat of resin on them. The trim pump is on the starboard side and the battery is on the port side.
As far as mechanical/engine things are concerned I installed my new starboard exhaust manifold, it's funny they include the pipe plugs in the kit, but not the studs the risers mount to...speaking of risers I ended up replacing those as well, osco 6351 if anyone needs the part number, I found two on ebay, one from Florida and the other from Michigan. The one from Florida arrived 3 days ago and the one from Michigan still hasn't arrived...
I bought a flexible black stainless Lokar dipstick that mounts conveniently under the exhaust manifold and doesn't stick out like the stock one. Super happy with how it mounted up!
I also pulled the Mallory YH distributor out of one of the parts-boat engines and cleaned it up, I've never worked with a Mallory before but it's really well built! Uses a reluctor setup for pulsing the ignition coil.
Before I put the engine back in I replaced all 6 of the rubber engine mount bushings, they were all pretty badly cracked. Every time I take the engine out and put it in I like to practice the alignment procedure too.
Anyways I hope everyone is staying safe! Enjoy Mothers day weekend!
Post by: awc105 on May 09, 2020, 09:06:54 PM
Post by: awc105 on May 09, 2020, 09:08:04 PM
Post by: dorelse on May 10, 2020, 10:12:58 PM
Post by: Hyperacme on May 11, 2020, 11:56:23 AM
Post by: awc105 on May 11, 2020, 07:35:08 PM
Post by: awc105 on May 12, 2020, 08:38:28 PM
Since I had the mallory distributor and it turned out so nice, I decided to get a matching mallory ignition coil as well:)
I have some more photos, but is anyone else having problems with posting photos? I keep trying but every time I get an error where the window just goes blank and it never actually posts anything...
It only doesn't work when I attach a photo
Post by: Hyperacme on May 12, 2020, 09:08:34 PM
Can you reduce the size of them ?
Or post one picture per post, then do a reply and post another one.
Keep up the good work and sorry for the hassle ..
Post by: awc105 on May 13, 2020, 06:11:23 AM
Thanks!
Post by: awc105 on May 13, 2020, 08:39:58 PM
Post by: awc105 on May 13, 2020, 08:46:22 PM
I also figured out why my photos weren't uploading, on apple devices the default image format is .heic, I forgot to convert to jpeg whoops haha All good now!
Post by: awc105 on May 14, 2020, 07:45:05 PM
Also got some 5ft battery cables, the ones I had before were to short to make it to the other side where the battery is, 1/0 AWG.
Post by: dorelse on May 14, 2020, 11:56:41 PM
Post by: awc105 on May 16, 2020, 07:06:28 PM
Post by: awc105 on May 31, 2020, 09:10:52 PM
I finished boxing in the stern on both sides, it was quite an involved process making the patterns for those pieces, so many angles...I plan to fill them up partially with foam for some safety flotation. I cut out some holes in the panels for the cables, hoses, etc to come through.
I have both of the original vent louvres that go on each side, they are pretty rough though and the plating is peeling off one of them... I considered having them re-chromed but the quote I got was way to expensive for what they are, I also tried finding a used pair online but they seem to be super rare. After talking with my dad about it for a while I set sights on recreating the same vents but in stainless steel. I drew the vent in solidworks as a flattened out pattern, I found a company that does quick turnaround sheet metal laser cutting for a very nice price so I decided to give it a try. I am using 18ga 304L stainless sheet. I have access to a tig welder(and someone who is experienced at welding haha) and a sheet metal brake so I should be all set, will update with progress on that one, I just feel like stainless is what they should have used from the factory...
I received my gauge set and switches, still waiting on the ignition switch which was backordered...
Also I ordered a pound of metal flake for the gelcoat, its from rothmetalflake and the color is "voodoo bloo". This will probably disappoint the guys who like the more traditional glastron gelcoat pattern, but I decided on a completely different color scheme:) The plan is to have a stripe of the blue that follows the lines of the current white/blue transition, and then the rest will be black, probably unconventional but I think it will be pretty sharp, see my rather terrible attempt at editing a photo below for the concept:)
Anyways I hope everyone is staying safe:)
Post by: awc105 on May 31, 2020, 09:12:16 PM
Post by: awc105 on May 31, 2020, 09:12:46 PM
Post by: awc105 on May 31, 2020, 09:13:21 PM
Post by: awc105 on May 31, 2020, 09:13:54 PM
Post by: awc105 on May 31, 2020, 09:16:04 PM
Post by: awc105 on May 31, 2020, 09:18:02 PM
Post by: awc105 on May 31, 2020, 09:19:40 PM
Time to focus on the ski locker and fuel tank shelf! After that its time to prep for gelcoat!
Post by: awc105 on July 18, 2020, 09:50:10 AM
Since last time I have been working on several different parts of the boat. First of which was recreating the vent louvres in stainless sheetmetal, I traced out the pattern of the orignal using some thin cardboard, I then transferred the dimensions of the pattern I made to some cad software and made a 3D model which I could then send off to a quick-turn laser cutting company called OSHcut. I had three different pieces cut, one is a single louvre scoop, one is the louvre frame, and the third is the mounting plate that goes inside the boat. The louve scoops will be welded to the louvre frame, as well as some threaded studs. Some 3" stainless pipe will be welded to the mounting plate so that the 3" vinyl vent hoses will have a place to attach. I dont have much experience with bending metal, but I purchased the cheapest sheet metal brake they had at harbor freight and got good results with it:)
Post by: awc105 on July 18, 2020, 09:51:16 AM
Post by: awc105 on July 18, 2020, 10:11:47 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200718/76287a43fa7e779b5bc5a846e7c9541b.jpg)
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Post by: awc105 on July 18, 2020, 10:21:43 AM
Once all the fairing is done I need to coat it with a barrier coat that the gelcoat will bond with, so I chose a barrier coat/primer they recommend for total fair called total protect. I’m still unsure whether to coat the whole boat with it or just the faired spots...(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200718/c294d019e882eb97869747dd85e5319a.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200718/8427eee5181d9905d7ab7f7cd9e41518.jpg)
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Post by: awc105 on July 18, 2020, 10:26:28 AM
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Post by: awc105 on July 18, 2020, 10:42:33 AM
The test panel on the pics is once coat of black, once coat of clear with the flake, and four coats of clear on top of that, for a total thickness of about 25 mils, I then sprayed enough white to match the thickness of the black with flake so that it’s even. I then wet sanded with 180, 240, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1200, and 1500, then used 3m finesse it 2 to buff, and scotchguard wax to finish it out:)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200718/9a9c2e9cfa64bb17b16bb57016930032.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200718/b9f69db3cd74824fde1690cdf6b944ed.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200718/4bd75e90f3c14cc7fd6b4c2ae1e2e646.jpg)
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Post by: awc105 on July 18, 2020, 10:46:19 AM
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200718/bbf4c3cfb924851306149b7fbcffddaf.jpg)
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Post by: awc105 on July 18, 2020, 10:46:42 AM
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Post by: awc105 on April 03, 2023, 07:49:44 PM
So it's been quite some time since I last posted (crazy to think it's been a few years already), but we are back!
I've been working on things here and there over the last few years, but due to a change in career and other things life got kind of busy.
Also, my father currently has a SeaRay 270 Sundancer that is getting a new transom right now in the shop, so we've been sharing the space, his boat is in during the winter, and mine in the summer.
Since last time, some things have changed, the stainless vents I was attempting to make we're welded by a local guy and they didn't come out quite like I was hoping...however I was able to find a set of resin 3D printed vents that I plan to have chrome-plated. They can be found here:https://www.mxride.com/shop/glastron-blower-vents/
I have installed the new windshield into the frame (boy what a rabbit-hole that was).
Bought a nice steering wheel: https://www.gtperformance.net/product/14-4337-gt-classic-wood/ and designed an aluminum hub adapter to bolt a standard 3-bolt automotive wheel to the tapered square ride-guide assembly.
I have decided to stay away from gelcoat, I plan to spray the boat with a white and blue color scheme like it was back in '74, however I will be using Awlcraft SE. Selected colors are Metallic Carribbean Blue (E5005) and Stark White (L8015). The boat is upside down on a stand I built, it is coated with totalBoat totalProtect right now.
When I bought the boat it had none of the seats or original upholstery, so I had to scrounge the web (this forum mostly) for pictures and sketches of the seat frames, I was able to construct a solid model of them.
Last summer I refurbished the trailer as well.
Also, I have been working on the Mercruiser 888 Setup, I swapped the intake for a 4 barrel unit and bought a Marine Holley 650 from ebasicpower, I put center-rise manifolds on, gave it a good paint job, etc...next on the list is a new oil pan.
Here's a video of it running: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ubw24s5NyVyv5VvV4hSzT1cK5YT3yLEw/view?usp=sharing
Planning to put some 3" inline silencers on it once it's in the boat and run the exhaust out over the back of the transom.
I resealed the drive upper and lower, replaced the water pump, installed a skeg guard and drive shower (never seen one installed on an MC1, however with a couple mods it went on great). Planning on painting the drive next weekend.
I will hopefully be prepping for hull paint by the end of the month when it gets a little warmer out, it's currently mud season in SW Michigan...
Anyways now that I have some free time again I will try to be posting regular updates.
-Andrew(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230404/d748b201af58bcbc60886b18597c799e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230404/c0c43c6f4da7e52198eaec1ab12773c6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230404/132c2d5d96188cc3382676ea0091b45c.jpg)
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Post by: awc105 on April 03, 2023, 07:50:30 PM
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Post by: awc105 on April 03, 2023, 07:50:49 PM
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Post by: awc105 on April 03, 2023, 07:53:49 PM
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Post by: Hyperacme on April 03, 2023, 09:46:07 PM
That wheel is NICE !
Post by: thedeuceman on April 04, 2023, 11:20:43 AM
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Post by: Fatlenny on April 04, 2023, 05:49:06 PM
Post by: awc105 on April 04, 2023, 06:28:54 PM
Hey thanks for the replies guys!
Yeah my original steering wheel was trashed...GT Performance makes some great stuff that isn't too expensive. The Glastron emblem from ebay to go in the hub is the cherry on top!
I also, repaired the dash (luckily it wasn't too far gone) using abs adhesive to bond the cracks back together, and then spent a great deal of time sanding and painting it, never took any photos after it was it painted though...not sure how it'll hold up under use since it still feels pretty fragile, but we'll cross that bridge when it comes
Hey Fatlenny,
Yes! I would love to take those off your hands, they're even blue! I'll send you a PM.
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Post by: Fatlenny on April 04, 2023, 07:59:22 PM
Post by: Fatlenny on April 05, 2023, 04:38:05 AM
Post by: awc105 on April 07, 2023, 06:20:18 PM
Finally got around to making an outdrive stand, cost about $30. I found a nice 16 x 24 carpeted dolly at harbor freight, a 2x6 that I had lying around, and some extra carpet from when I carpeted the bunk boards on the trailer. I think it turned out pretty nice! Might end up painting the bare wood black so it looks finished.
Spent another few hours going over the drive with a pick to remove all the aluminum corrosion and then wire brushing, I'll probably sand with 220, 400, and 600, and then paint with quicksilver phantom black
Excited for tomorrow, I'll be picking up the seats that Fatlenny has kindly offered!
Enjoy the Easter weekend!
-Andrew(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230407/05fc6fbcbdc917c5f2f5e173cef69a2b.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230407/fcb812c3c6b96562047c4cf51a8c49d9.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230407/929d1d2e80c1dbb17f2b7c225025c8d4.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230407/cf7f537bfd8af2dc3b7b831c19c60c44.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230407/630946fc13c7af4b29eb703014831955.jpg)
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Post by: awc105 on April 08, 2023, 02:06:43 PM
Big thanks to Fatlenny!
The vinyl appears to be in good shape, just needs a bit of cleaning, some of the wood needs replaced as well, best case they can be used as-is with some moderate TLC, worst case I get them recovered
-Andrew
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Post by: Glastronjohn18 on April 08, 2023, 06:21:31 PM
Post by: awc105 on April 10, 2023, 07:50:23 PM
Used a vacation day to get some work done, I got the drive sanded down and painted. Ive always had good luck with the quicksilver phantom black paint, I used the primer, leveler and clear coat as well. I'm very happy with the results! 3 coats of primer, black, and clear
I'm going to wait a couple weeks for the paint to fully cure, then I'll apply the 888 decals.
I received some parts today, new oil pan, dip stick, pan gasket and a stud kit, I'll probably install those this weekend.
I cleaned up one of the pieces from the seats I recently got, I wiped the vinyl with mineral spirits, then with 303, it cleaned up pretty nice, but there's alot of scratches and small damage so in the end I'm going to have them re covered. Going to try and find the same color vinyl.
Looks like May 1st is when my boat will be able to get back in the shop, so that's when I'll begin the hull painting!
-Andrew
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230411/a11ae3da4806a01366a8ca6210af7d99.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230411/27fcf589e0f54471503a38065a7b9e69.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230411/c2984645d7cf1702e6fbe1dc6a62c986.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230411/2f5ec20ea1f59402765c2c1a892d71dd.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230411/9d3d080caaf255198f85d0bc1dbb9817.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20230411/e51d70536b0a52ddff00dc42b6f3b08c.jpg)
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Post by: Fatlenny on April 11, 2023, 04:13:59 PM
Post by: awc105 on April 12, 2023, 11:38:57 AM
I had some down time today so I was able to sketch up a couple concepts for the engine cover, I plan to shape a large block (9 cubic feet or so) of foam and then make a mold for the cover. I wanted the cover to retain a sleek look, I also added a front air scoop and cutouts in the back for the over transom exhaust.
Attached are the concept images. Let me know which one you all think is cooler, etc...
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on April 12, 2023, 01:42:59 PM
Ok, enough CAD for now...
-Andrew
Post by: thedeuceman on April 12, 2023, 06:10:48 PM
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Post by: Hyperacme on April 12, 2023, 06:18:39 PM
Post by: awc105 on April 16, 2023, 08:12:45 PM
Also thanks for the input! I think I prefer 2 as well, I've been doing quite a bit of research on mold making lately. I know the engine cover will be one of the last things I actually tackle, but it's nice to at least have an idea what direction to head in design-wise! I am only able to work on the boat on the weekends currently, so during the week I try and tackle anything else about the project that I can.
I did get some work done this weekend though! Started the oil pan replacement, however I found the oil pan I purchased is incompatible with the stock ford pickup...I had a gut feeling I should have ordered the recommended one for the pan...long story short the new pickup will arrive sometime this week. I still mounted the pan to seat the gasket and let the RTV cure into place. FYI for anyone using a Canton 13-600 oil pan, use canton pickup 15-641. Still trying to figure out the best path to route the dipstick.
In other news, after letting the drive paint cure for a week I filled it with gear lube, put on the decals, and reinstalled all the accessories, only thing it's missing is a prop!
Very happy with the final look!
It was 84 this weekend and tomorrow it's supposed to drop to 35...
-Andrew
Post by: ford-bldr on April 17, 2023, 11:52:16 AM
Used this in the past on car projects when I mixed new and old vinyl in the interiors. Works nice:
https://www.amazon.com/CarGuys-Plastic-Restorer-Ultimate-Solution/dp/B071FRWWRF/ref=sr_1_2?hvadid=616863386373&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=1023136&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvrand=14336940050508154316&hvtargid=kwd-1981246522&hydadcr=24662_13611802&keywords=vinyl+restore&qid=1681749915&sr=8-2
Dan
Post by: awc105 on April 21, 2023, 01:52:22 PM
If I end up recovering the seats, I think I have found a good replacement vinyl: https://www.sailrite.com/Morbern-Carrara-Blue-54-Vinyl-Fabric
It's a tad darker than the awlcraft paint I'm planning to use, however I think it will match nicely.
Hoping to finish up the oil pan job this weekend, got the new pickup tube in the mail yesterday.
Boat is going in the shop May 1st, so I will be ordering the materials to start the painting process soon!
Looks like we all agree on concept 2, I spent some time smoothing it out, time to mothball it until I'm ready to make a cover...
Those that have a CV-16SS or similar what kind of a prop are you running? The 74' brochure mentions running a 23P prop on the Mercruiser 140.
Post by: Hyperacme on April 21, 2023, 02:17:42 PM
Cancun blue came closest to original.
Company I got it from is out of business now .. but vinyl should be available from other suppliers.
I think Jason (1974 CV16SS , 140 MC) is running a 21P Viper II, maybe 46 to 47 MPH.
Post by: awc105 on April 24, 2023, 12:42:22 PM
Got the oil pan job wrapped up this weekend, installed the new dipstick, and put on the valve cover decals. Calling the engine done at this point.
Also received the 3" inline silencers, they look nice!
In the next few days I will be ordering the first batch of materials to start the painting process, starting with sanding the hull and putting on the awlgrip 545 primer.
Next weekend I am planning on rebuilding and painting the trim cylinders as well. Anyone know a good way to disassemble these without using a pipe wrench like the service manual says?
Extra points for noticing all the rotten plywood and foam from my dads sea-ray in the background!
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on May 01, 2023, 11:31:56 AM
Still waiting on the weather to allow us to swap boats in the shop, likely this coming weekend, so in the mean-time I decided I'd rebuild and paint the trim cylinders. Got them disassembled last night.
Really getting the itch to get the painting done and start reassembly this year!
-Andrew
Post by: ford-bldr on May 01, 2023, 12:50:09 PM
Disassemble / Clean / Repair/ Replace / Re=assemble / NEXT!
Post by: Plugcheck on May 01, 2023, 04:07:05 PM
Post by: awc105 on May 02, 2023, 06:47:39 AM
Trying to approach it systematically, I can only work on it on the weekends so need to work efficiently.
To remove the caps I ended up using soft vice jaws and 1" dia. wooden dowel on the eye on the opposite end, worked great!
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on May 22, 2023, 06:22:35 PM
Planning to get started sanding nice and early next Saturday! Man is it nice to have her back in the shop! Goal for the summer is to have all the painting done, back on the trailer, with the engine installed.
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on May 22, 2023, 06:23:11 PM
Post by: awc105 on May 22, 2023, 06:23:37 PM
Post by: awc105 on May 22, 2023, 06:26:23 PM
Post by: Fatlenny on May 23, 2023, 03:15:04 AM
Post by: awc105 on June 11, 2023, 05:48:16 PM
This week I placed the final paint supply order, so within a week I should have all the paint materials on hand.
When I started sanding it wasn't raining, however after a few hours it started sprinkling, had to pull her back in the shop. Can't complain though, SW Michigan hasn't had rain in weeks...
In other news my Fianc?e and I were kayaking a few weekends ago and happened to paddle around a marina. While there I saw one boat with a mercruiser alpha drive that had a braided line going into the vent port on the top of the drive, this hose went through the transom into the boat. Curious about it, I started googling and found out that it is a gear oil reservoir/monitor for older drives (Gen II have this built in). Thinking this would be good for my setup since it would be really nice to know if the drive is losing oil etc...(perhaps through convection it will keep the oil slightly cooler?) I did some poking around on ebay and found a NOS kit still sealed in the original packaging! Super cool!
Anyways that's it for now, more to come as always.
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on June 11, 2023, 05:49:05 PM
Post by: Plugcheck on June 12, 2023, 03:22:47 PM
Post by: awc105 on June 14, 2023, 01:14:06 PM
I'm sure it could work for that kind of application, the reservoir is much larger in person than it looks in pictures, I was surprised, looks like almost a full quart!
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on June 19, 2023, 11:16:24 AM
I used mirka black powder guide coat which worked very well to locate all the spots!
Most of it was done using a baxter air sander which worked quite nice too with 3M gold stikit discs, the strakes were the most difficult part, all elbow grease!
I also received the last of the paint supplies, so it should be getting rather exciting soon!
Next week I will be finishing the 180 grit sanding, and then turning the workshop into a ventilated spray booth, then the week after that I should be shooting the new primer!
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on June 19, 2023, 11:16:53 AM
Post by: Fatlenny on June 19, 2023, 03:19:08 PM
Post by: awc105 on June 21, 2023, 10:31:51 AM
Getting heavy into the details of the painting process, I developed a mix calculator for Awlgrip 545 Primer, Awlcraft SE Top Coat, and Awlcraft 2000 Topcoat. All you have to do is select your desired volume unit (gallons, milliliters, ounces...), enter the total volume of paint you want, and enter your desired reducer percentage. It will will then calculate the required amount of base, converter, and reducer to mix to get that entered volume.
I have attached it here in case anyone else may want a copy.
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on July 03, 2023, 08:35:14 AM
Contemplating on whether I need to do the Awlgrip compatibility test per the application guide or not, the primer on the boat is totalBoat totalProtect which is an epoxy based primer. The Awlgrip 545 primer that is going on top of it is also an epoxy primer, any thoughts?
Hoping everyone has a safe and fun 4th!
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on July 03, 2023, 08:35:47 AM
Post by: awc105 on July 10, 2023, 09:59:47 AM
Finished setting up the spray booth, sealed in the blower unit for exhaust and put a furnace filter on the other side of the room as the intake, the combo worked very well!
It's been very humid around here lately so my compressor picks up a lot of moisture, I have 2 water separators but I was worried moisture might still make it to the spray gun, so I bought a new hose just for using with the spray gun, and I put a desiccant filter on the inlet to the new hose, and one right up at the spray gun. All the filtering and hose length created quite a pressure drop, when adjusting the gun to 28 psi the regulator at the compressor needed to be around 70psi! Either way the air setup worked great!
Once all the equipment was setup I then performed the Awlgrip compatibility test, it passed! So in the future if anyone is questioning putting Awlgrip 545 over totalBoat totalProtect I can say yes it is no problem! (As long as it was applied correctly)
After the test I wiped the hull clean first with compressed air and a lint free cotton rag, then with Awlprep T0170 and 2 rags. I started with Awlprep T0008 but found that it was too difficult to fully wet the surface because it would evaporate faster than I was able to wipe it off with the second rag...
After that I masked of the boat and started in to mixing. Since Awlgrip 545 has an induction time of 15 minutes, I would spray the first batch at the same time my dad would start mixing the second, that way I can continually spray. I was surprised at how thin the mix was without the reducer and I ended up spraying it without it using a 1.4mm tip. It laid it on very well. I was impressed, the gun I bought at a garage sale for $20, turns out it's a devilbiss Starting Line gun, which is there cheap one, still it's better than my other harbor freight units.
I was very happy with the outcome though, I did have one run on the port side, but it will be easily sanded out. Hoping to get the sanding done next week and prep for topcoat soon.
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on July 10, 2023, 10:01:03 AM
Post by: awc105 on July 10, 2023, 10:01:26 AM
Post by: thedeuceman on July 10, 2023, 12:13:12 PM
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Post by: awc105 on July 10, 2023, 06:40:45 PM
-Andrew
Post by: Fatlenny on July 11, 2023, 05:34:39 PM
Post by: awc105 on July 13, 2023, 06:19:01 PM
Post by: awc105 on August 04, 2023, 09:46:25 PM
If anyone is interested, most of the steps I've been following for using Awlcraft have been learned from Frankie Bushong's channel: https://www.youtube.com/@boatpaintingrestorationwit3029
That's it for now, should be getting some more done this coming weekend, need to do some work on the car first though...
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on August 04, 2023, 09:47:43 PM
Post by: awc105 on August 04, 2023, 09:48:22 PM
Post by: awc105 on August 20, 2023, 09:34:44 PM
Ended up burning through the primer when finish sanding, so today I went about touching up all those spots. I really thought hard about whether it was worth the extra time since the spots were only on edges, but I wouldn't want to risk losing adhesion so I decided to do it. Hopefully in the next few days I'll be able to finish the sanding and start spraying top coat. My goal for the summer was to get the bottom painted and back on the trailer, so I need to hurry up, summer is getting close to ending...
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on August 27, 2023, 11:17:03 AM
Long read, sorry...
Sanded my primer touch-ups quickly with 220 grit, filled the remaining pinholes (not many) using the 3M glazing putty, then did the 320 grit finish sanding. The last steps before topcoat are a scuff with 400 grit equivalent scotch-brite pad (the gray one), a quick rinse with water and dry, solvent wipe with T0170, and finally a tack rag.
One thing I learned when spraying the 545 primer is that it lays out much easier when using the reducer (duh), but when I initially put it on it seemed quite thin by itself so I sprayed without it, it laid down fine, but the orange peel was more pronounced. Anyways from here on out I would recommend thinning at 25% because it laid out like a dream. I also removed the internal screen on the 3M PPS cup.
Labor day weekend is coming up and I am targeting that as the perfect time to get the topcoat finished. I'm going to need 3 days to complete the spraying process. This upcoming friday will be setup, finishing the hull prep, taping, and then laying down the white on the entire hull. Then sunday after letting the white sit for around 48 hours I then tape it off to spray the blue for the classic glastron design. Before I did any work on the hull bottom I made templates of the paint lines, so I will use those to layout the tape for the blue region. Once the tape is laid out it is recommend that the fresh paint is scuffed with the red scotch-brite then I can apply the metallic blue. Once the blue is done I remove the tape as soon as possible, re-tape the whole hull, then spray clear over the white and blue (awlcraft SE is a basecoat clearcoat system, unlike awlcraft 2000). I am planning on then letting it sit undisturbed for 7 days. After that I can finally start thinking about flipping it and putting it back on the trailer.
In other news I don't think I ever shared any pictures of the restored dash. I spent quite a while a few winters ago getting it repaired. I had several cracks, the glove box door was broken, and some of the gauge flanges were broken. The best thing I found to repair the cracks was oatey black ABS cement, the solvent in it melts the cement into the original ABS plastic to form a bond that I wouldn't be surprised is stronger than the original plastic. To hold pieces of dash in the right location I found masking tape to work quite well. I found an old V174 dash on ebay that I got some gauge mounting flanges from to replace the ones that were missing. I glued a piece of 3/4" plywood underneath the hole for the ignition switch to beef it up a bit. For the glove box door I had a 3/8" piece of delrin sheet on the shelf so I went about shaping that to match the old one. Once done I painted the whole assembly with dark gray plastidip rubberized coating. During the restoration process I had sanded off a lot of the original texture that was on the plastic, so the plastidip helped get some of that texture back. I replaced all the toggle switches and indicator lights, and bought a set of Sierra Heavy Duty series gauges (I really liked the simplistic look of them). I also refurbished the original horn assembly as well.
And finally I have been disappointed to find that there aren't a lot of options for marine performance exhaust for the small block ford, and I am set on keeping the 302 for this boat. Specifically for me I want to get away from the cast iron and get a set of cast aluminum manifolds. After some comparing I have found that the port spacing for an LS chevy is almost the same as the small block ford, so I am going about designing an adapter plate since there are many options for aluminum manifolds for the LS. I have been 3D printing some prototypes, I'm on revision 3 now, the biggest fitment problem is clearance for the spark plug, but I think I now have that solved. Some people may say it's a waste of time, but I rather enjoy it :) I'm looking at using these nice IMCO manifolds : https://www.hardin-marine.com/p-110372-imco-powerflow-ls-chevy-kit-with-stainless-riser-and-polished-manifolds.aspx (https://www.hardin-marine.com/p-110372-imco-powerflow-ls-chevy-kit-with-stainless-riser-and-polished-manifolds.aspx)
I am also looking at upgrading to fuel injection at some point, most likely the Holley Sniper 2. The manifolds above already have a built in bung for an O2 sensor.
Anyways enough rambling, enjoy what's left of summer! Hopefully my next post will have some glorious pics of a completely painted hull bottom and perhaps even be back on the trailer!
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on August 27, 2023, 11:18:14 AM
Post by: awc105 on August 27, 2023, 11:19:07 AM
Post by: awc105 on August 27, 2023, 11:20:01 AM
Post by: awc105 on August 27, 2023, 11:20:29 AM
Post by: awc105 on August 27, 2023, 11:21:04 AM
Post by: awc105 on August 27, 2023, 11:22:08 AM
Post by: thedeuceman on August 28, 2023, 06:44:17 AM
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Post by: Plugcheck on August 28, 2023, 08:29:52 AM
Post by: awc105 on August 28, 2023, 01:03:56 PM
@Plugcheck Yeah good catch, I have been thinking about that a bit. According to the TDS, at 77F I have between 1 hour and 3 days to apply the clear, however I agree with you that the sooner the clear is applied the better. My biggest concern is accidentally pulling up white base when I go to remove the tape after spraying the blue over it. Perhaps I am worrying too much and 24 hours is plenty of time for the paint to cure enough that putting tape on it won't harm it.
Post by: awc105 on August 28, 2023, 01:12:31 PM
"First Cure Cycle: This cycle requires 12?24 hours at the standard
conditions of 77˚F (25˚C), 50% R.H. When this stage is complete the
painted surface can be handled; masking tape can be applied for striping
and the finish appears to be dry. The coating can now be exposed to
weather."
So yes, I will reduce the wait time from 48 to 24 hours, thanks again Plugcheck
-Andrew
Post by: Plugcheck on August 28, 2023, 11:08:53 PM
Post by: awc105 on September 05, 2023, 09:35:04 AM
Monday morning I made copies of the master patterns I made for positioning the tape line for the blue/white transition. I then applied those to the hull surface and ran my tape lines, this took much longer than I expected, but once I got the tapelines down, the rest of the masking was fairly straight forward. Once the masking was done I used a red scotchbrite to scuff up the surface the blue would be applied to, I then scuffed it up again with a gray scotchbrite, then another solvent wipe. I mixed the metallic blue "Carribean Blue" being very careful to utilize every last drop, reminding myself how expensive it was. I sprayed 3 layers of blue which came out great! After an hour I removed the masking and taped the rub rail once again to spray the whole hull with clear, another solvent wipe was done of course. I then mixed the clear and laid down 2 layers per the instructions. At this point it was around 10pm. I am very happy with the results, although one problem I did have was bugs... Never spray at night...I though my chamber was sealed but apparently not well enough, so there will likely be some rework of the clear...but besides that it couldn't have went better in my opinion. Excited to see what it looks like in the sun!
That's all for now.
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on September 05, 2023, 09:35:42 AM
Post by: Plugcheck on September 06, 2023, 09:34:47 AM
Post by: Hyperacme on September 06, 2023, 10:26:18 AM
Post by: thedeuceman on September 07, 2023, 06:39:55 AM
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Post by: awc105 on September 11, 2023, 06:06:46 PM
Yeah it took quite a while getting the swoosh just right...I'm a perfectionist (or so my wife says) lol
Planning to flip and put on trailer next weekend. Season is coming to a close soon, she'll be put in storage in October, I'll have to find other non-hull related things to work on during the winter, perhaps chrome-plating and sanding/polishing of all the metal hardware and rub-rail. Any suggestions on what to coat brushed aluminum with to protect finish? This is what I used for the windshield frame : https://shop.everbritecoatings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=52&landingPage=https://www.everbritecoatings.com/protectaclear&_gl=1*25ovn2*_ga*MzY0MDA1MzA1LjE2OTQ0NzM1MTE.*_ga_1SBQK38DF4*MTY5NDQ3MzUxMS4xLjEuMTY5NDQ3MzUxNS41Ni4wLjA (https://shop.everbritecoatings.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=52&landingPage=https://www.everbritecoatings.com/protectaclear&_gl=1*25ovn2*_ga*MzY0MDA1MzA1LjE2OTQ0NzM1MTE.*_ga_1SBQK38DF4*MTY5NDQ3MzUxMS4xLjEuMTY5NDQ3MzUxNS41Ni4wLjA)
However it is quite expensive...
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on September 18, 2023, 03:59:22 PM
I had a great time sanding gnats off my clear coat, 567 of them to be exact...Anyways I used 320 grit by hand to carefully sand away until the bug remnants were gone. Once that was done I scuffed the whole surface with a red then gray scotchbrite, solvent wiped, tack ragged...Yesterday I shot the final 2 layers of clear they came out perfect! I'm really digging the look, personally I prefer the more subdued metallic look than the original large flake look so I'm very happy with my paint choice.
One thing to note was I accidentally sanded through the white in two spots while removing bugs, so I ended up having to repair those before reshooting clear, I sprayed them and then blended the edges into the existing white, and that came out great too, could never tell I had to repair it :)
For those in the future that may be considering using Awlcraft SE/2000, I thinned to the recommended percentage for all coats, sprayed at 29 psi with a 1.4mm tip, let all paint mixes induce for 10 minutes. If you want to use the two-rag method for solvent wiping use Awlprep solvent T0170 as it stays on the surface longer than T0008. For all coats I mixed in 1L batches, that way I could reduce time between gun refills, the pot life is something like several hours so definitely not as stressful as gelcoat... Also, buy more reducer than you think you need.
The gun I used was a devilbiss SLG (might be a clone) that I bought at a garage sale for $20 last year.
Plan is for it to set and cure for 2 weeks while I figure out the logistics of getting it flipped back over and put on the trailer.
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on September 18, 2023, 04:01:28 PM
Post by: awc105 on September 18, 2023, 04:03:08 PM
Post by: thedeuceman on September 18, 2023, 05:20:37 PM
Personally, I prefer the giant flakes, but nothings going to take away from the awesome job. You?re doing on this boat, that metallic blue is beautiful.
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Post by: Hyperacme on September 18, 2023, 05:50:05 PM
Post by: awc105 on September 30, 2023, 07:55:45 PM
The exciting news to report though is that she is back on the trailer! We used a standard engine crane on the stern with a plate that bolts to the keyhole, and then our gantry on the bow with some large sling straps. The lift went fine and I was able to pull out the stand from underneath, then we backed the trailer in underneath. With some generous manpower we flipped the hull over in mid air and gently lowered it onto the trailer. Unfortunately though we did end up scratching the stern in one spot...it can never be 100%...so I'll have to fix that soon, prefer to just get it done now before winter.
That's all for now, once the paint scratch is repaired I'll likely switch to winter mode and focus on some small tasks like getting all the metal trim pieces cleaned and brushed or chromed. Maybe I'll start rebuilding the seats too who knows
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on September 30, 2023, 07:57:03 PM
Post by: awc105 on September 30, 2023, 08:03:56 PM
In other news I think I mentioned working some exhaust flange adapters a while back because I really want to use a pair of aluminum manifolds, and they just don't exist for an old ford small block...Anyways here are some snapshots of the adapter I came up with. Adapts from 302W to LS, 7/16" thick. Sometime this winter I'll throw a piece of plate on our CNC mill and actually make one, until then I made some 3D prints to prototype.
Ok, that's really all for now :)
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on October 08, 2023, 05:49:49 PM
In other news, since I have the boat right side up again for the first time in two years, I couldn't help but throw the engine in and play around with some exhaust piping. I have a couple options, in all cases I intend to run the exhaust over the top of the stern rather than thru-hull. See pics for what I am thinking. I really like the look of the 45 degree pipes tilted off to the side. I also have some 3" silencers that I want to use as well, so I may end up cutting the 45s and welding them to the silencers. I also wheeled the drive up close to get an idea what she might look like when done. It's nice when a vision of what you've been working so long on starts to become real!
I'm really glad we decided on getting the gantry hoist, it makes putting in and taking the engine out super easy!
The paint scratch is visible in some of the photos, unfortunately I'll have to wait until next year to fix it, the temperature is too low now to paint... oh well...
Anyways I hope everyone is doing well and getting in their last rides of the season.
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on October 08, 2023, 05:50:50 PM
Post by: Hyperacme on October 08, 2023, 06:06:34 PM
Looking for more pictures of stern ...
Post by: Hyperacme on October 08, 2023, 06:14:24 PM
Post by: Glastronjohn18 on October 09, 2023, 10:45:37 AM
Post by: awc105 on October 19, 2023, 01:59:25 PM
@Glastronjohn18 Oh I agree, I think I'll have a local weld shop cut and re-weld the silencers into the 45 pipes
Well fall appears to be upon us, all the boats have been winterized and covered for winter... time to change gears.
One of the things on my list was to paint my Holley 4160 a different color, the black paint job that came with it left a lot to be desired. Originally I bought it from ebasicpower as a refurbed unit. Be warned though, when I disassembled it I found there was no power valve gasket and the secondary float spring was missing...maybe that explains why I saw fuel dripping out the venturi's the last time I ran the thing? Based on this I decided to do a full rebuild in case they made any other errors. Anyways I wanted something close to the factory Holley Gold finish, maybe a bit nicer. So I opted for duplicolor engine enamel Gold DE1604 for most parts, and duplicolor Aluminum DE1615 for the throttle plate.
While metal finishing will be a winter long project, the next sub-project I plan to tackle is rebuild the shifter, it's pretty rough...
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on October 19, 2023, 02:00:38 PM
Post by: Fatlenny on October 21, 2023, 05:00:12 AM
Post by: Glastronjohn18 on October 23, 2023, 07:49:47 PM
Post by: awc105 on March 10, 2024, 01:08:42 PM
Currently it's fluctuating between 40F and 70F here in SW Michigan, I decided to pull the boat out a little earlier than normal, but I missed it, can you blame me? My dad has his sea-ray in the workshop we share currently, he's almost done putting in a new transom, so, much to the irritation of my wife, work continues in the garage!
At the end of last season I finished the hull side paint and was able to put her back on the trailer, now I have dived right into prepping the topside for paint. Most of the topside fairing I completed a few years back, before I flipped her upside down, so really the only remaining fairing that needs to be done is for the bow. I've noticed that on almost all CV16s that I've seen, the bow has these ripples in it, I believe they are from in the factory when they glassed in the foam boards on the bottom side of the cap it caused the cap to warp...The location of the warpage can also be seen on a brisk morning when the dew visibly condenses in the areas where the foam is not located. Anyways, I set out to level the high/low spots and make it smooth. I am a few applications of fairing compound in, but I think I am nearing the end. To make it quicker work I purchased an air powered 15" sanding block. Hoping to complete the leveling by the end of this week. Then I will begin the same painting process that was done before. Epoxy barrier coat, finish primer, topcoat.
Still haven't tackled the metal bits or the shifter yet, paint is priority.
I purchased another decal that wasn't able to find for the longest time, even though I am designing a new engine cover, I wanted to use the original CV-SS decal. Well I ended up finding one on ebay, here's the link if anyone else needs one: https://www.ebay.com/itm/175705204533 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/175705204533)
@Fatlenny
Thanks! Yeah, I am hoping to be on the water by the end of the year (likely without seats or an engine cover), once the paint is done, the drive system should go together quickly, I get what you mean about long-term projects, they can really drag on. I think for my next boat project I may look for a 22-26ft vee with a bravo 1 and a big block, ut one that doesn't have any rot or gelcoat issues... and at some point I would love a CV19 with a jet drive. But certainly would love to get together and tear up a lake!
@Glastronjohn18
Hey thanks! Checked out the link, I think I will be purchasing anything carb related from them from now on!
Anyways, that's all for now, will be checking regularly from now on.
-Andrew
Post by: Fatlenny on March 10, 2024, 07:31:11 PM
Short vid of starting up the jet for a buddy.
https://youtube.com/shorts/_z8jFblTp0s?si=lH6mJrQIhkJ81kKC
Post by: awc105 on March 18, 2024, 10:34:05 AM
On the stern I went back and revisited the joints where I reattached the engine cover flanges, it seems the PL glue I used to glue on the wood blocks underneath had shrunk over the last few winters, so I could feel a slight dip in the surface when rubbing my hand over it, also I noticed what appears to be some sort of oil leaching out of the joint, probably also from the PL glue. I was worried this might fish-eye when doing the paint so I took a dremel tool and ground a trench along the joint down to bare glass and then filled it in with fairing compound, should be all good now.
I think I have finally settled on the fabric I want to use for the interior, I ordered several 6x6 samples from sailrite, the one I like the most is Morbern Carrara Blue: https://www.sailrite.com/Morbern-Carrara-Blue-54-Vinyl-Fabric (https://www.sailrite.com/Morbern-Carrara-Blue-54-Vinyl-Fabric), I haven't actually received the samples yet but I think I will go with the blue. I've been toying around with the idea of light tan or white / off-white upholstery, but we'll see how I feel when the samples arrive tomorrow. Anyone have any guess how many yards of fabric will be needed to do the seats? I thinking about 15 yards.
For the rub rail I spoke to Eagle Aluminum to see if I could get a sample of the BRR-744-BK (old p/n V-744-BK) to check fitment, but apparently they don't do samples so I ended up ordering the 60ft roll, I'll go on faith that it fits based on what other users here have said, stuff isn't cheap though for just being a vinyl insert...
I also ordered a few gallons of gelcoat for painting the inside of the boat, bilge, ski locker, etc... I will likely wait until the topside paint is done so I don't have to worry about overspray
On the subject of carpet, I'm going back and forth between regular blue marine carpet, or some of that foam insert stuff that imitates a teak deck, maybe that's too modern looking, not sure yet..
The goal has always been to keep it mostly original looking with a "twist" of modernity, but not so much that it takes away the charm and character these old boats have.
The wheels of progress are in motion!
@Fatlenny Haha sounds like you've got a lot on your plate lol, a jet conversion would be cool! Would be interesting to see the mods you'd have to make to the hull for the jet drive intake! Loving the checkmate!
-Andrew
Post by: awc105 on March 25, 2024, 10:25:32 AM
I received the rub rail vinyl quite quickly from Eagle so that was nice to see! I bought a large bag of the appropriate size pop-rivets for reattaching the rub rail aluminum, just trying to get everything ordered that I will need for reassembly after the paint is done. Earlier this week I went around and drilled out all the old rivets, when I removed the rub-rail I used a chisel to break the rivet heads off, this allow me to remove the rail but it left the rest of the rivet there...it took quite a while as there is about 100 or so of them.
I have decided to paint the inside of the boat with white gelcoat first before painting the outside, originally I was worried about overspray, but I think the risk of spilling white gelcoat on the pretty new paint is higher than getting overspray on the inside gelcoat, I'll just use copious amounts of plastic!
I also plan to pour the floatation foam in the stern before painting as well.
In other news I got some upholstery vinyl samples, 4 of which I am trying to choose from. Of course the easy option is to go with blue, but I'm torn because the brown and light gray look good too...I've always felt that the stock look was just a bit too much blue...
Anyways thats all for now!
-Andrew
Post by: Hyperacme on March 25, 2024, 06:47:23 PM
Post by: awc105 on April 14, 2024, 11:40:25 AM
Well, it has been a few weeks and things are progressing nicely! The weather this past week has been warm enough to allow me to paint the inside of the boat, plain white gelcoat from US Composites, really happy with how clean it made everything look! It took two coats to get the proper coverage.
In parallel I have also been doing quite a bit of work refurbishing all the metal hardware. I have elected to go with a brushed finish for all the metal parts, so lots of sanding and scotchbrite/0000 steel wool. Once I get the finish I'm looking for, I seal it with a product called protectaclear to prevent oxidation. Some of the pieces, the rub rail extrusion for example, appeared to originally have been coated with a clear anodize. This coating was in pretty bad shape so I sanded it all off which a bigger chore than expected. Other pieces I have been working on include the steering wheel hub, bow badge, dash bracketry..
The original cast aluminum stern rub rail corners and bow tip were kind rough with some pretty heavy scratching in them, fearing trying to sand them out would remove too much material I compromised, knowing they are already 50 years old and I'm not going for a 100% brand new restoration, I elected to clean them up and coat them and move on. From a distance you cant tell they're there any way!
My original bow badge was in rough shape, so I ended up having one made, drew it up in CAD and had it CNC'd by one of those offshore CNC services, similar to what I did for the steering wheel hub, the results turned out great!
In other news the bow surface is finally smooth and ripple free, the barrier coat I used on the hull requires an 80 grit scratch, so I will be going over the cap with 80 grit to prepare for that, once the barrier coat is on, I can fill the smaller pin holes and prep for finish primer, after that we're ready for topcoat! One step before barrier coat though is I want to pour the flotation foam in the stern on each side of the engine, I've calculated each side should get roughly 3 cubic feet of foam.
I'm excited because it feels like things are beginning to come together! Trying to get all the hardware prepped to be reinstalled once the paint is done. Once she looks like a CV16 again, I can begin installing the wiring, drive system, etc...which personally is my favorite part, paint/fiberglass work is ok but I much prefer the mechanical/electrical stuff.
That's all for now! Stay tuned for more!
-Andrew
Post by: Hyperacme on April 14, 2024, 05:14:46 PM
" I seal it with a product called protectaclear to prevent oxidation "
Please let us know how this held up for you, and I'll add it to rub rail section.
Post by: Fatlenny on April 20, 2024, 05:30:03 AM
Post by: awc105 on May 08, 2024, 10:28:24 AM
Hoping to get started on sanding the barrier coat tomorrow, the awlgrip 545 finish primer requires a 180grit scratch. Once the sanding is done, I can spray the finish primer, sand to 320grit, and then we'll be ready for topcoat! Won't be able to use my fathers shop to paint this time as his sea ray is in there still, so I've been thinking about getting one of these inflatable spray booths: https://www.vevor.com/inflatable-paint-booth-c_10313/vevor-inflatable-paint-booth-23x13x8-5ft-inflatable-spray-booth-high-powerful-480w-750w-blowers-spray-booth-tent-car-paint-tent-air-filter-system-for-car-parking-tent-workstation-motorcycle-garage-p_010693190050 (https://www.vevor.com/inflatable-paint-booth-c_10313/vevor-inflatable-paint-booth-23x13x8-5ft-inflatable-spray-booth-high-powerful-480w-750w-blowers-spray-booth-tent-car-paint-tent-air-filter-system-for-car-parking-tent-workstation-motorcycle-garage-p_010693190050)
They seem to be pretty positively reviewed online.
@Fatlenny, @Hyperacme thanks for the comments guys! Yeah, I found the protectaclear stuff when I was doing the windshield frame. I can't yet comment for myself on it's durability, but this article is what convinced me to try it: https://blog.shinium.co.uk/2014/04/everbrite-protectaclear-metal-finishing.html (https://blog.shinium.co.uk/2014/04/everbrite-protectaclear-metal-finishing.html)
I think a polished/brushed jet drive would be really cool!
Anyways, that's all for now.