1989 VRO Tank wire identification

[wiliermdb]

Finally getting the 140 put back together and the only thing I'm unsure of is the two lead wire coming off the VRO tank.

The twin lead is similar to lamp cord. One side has ribs in the outer casing an the other lead is smooth. According to the parts diagram the lead nearest the oil hose (exiting the top of the tank) is the ground wire.

Just want to be sure since the P/O cut them off and there is nothing to match them to under the hood.

Anyone have a VRO system like this that they can verify the ribbed and smooth wire locations?


Other than this, boat project is just sitting there until warm weather arrives and stays. I did mow the yard for the first time in 2014. Need to start getting the flower beds looking good for spring.

[Plugcheck]

     By VRO, you mean variable Ratio Oiling?  I doubt polarized lamp cord was ever used from the factory, the PO probably did that.  Now assuming the ribbed, or polarized side is the "neutral" in a typical house lamp, then maybe it is a ground for this application, but considering the VRO system importance, I would not assume anything.   Personally, I would change the wire over to a marine, or at least an automotive application wire and verify the connections are correct, and that the system is functioning properly.   Many of the older outboards I have worked on, it was safer, cheaper, and easier to covert to mixed fuel.   Hope this helps.

[dorelse]

I didn't read that it's actually lamp cord...only that he's describing the wires so someone can tell him how there's is routed.

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[Rich_V174SS]

The "lamp cord" wire on the older tanks is from the factory, and not polarity specific since it goes to a float switch inside the tank. One lead is supposed to go to engine ground and the other to the alarm circuit. When oil level drops to within an inch or so of the bottom of the tank it closes the switch and sounds the warning alarm. It's that simple. If you touch the alarm wire lead to engine ground with the ignition key on then the alarm should sound. The horn is powered with 12v+ when the key is on and by connecting the sensor lead to ground on the engine that completes the circuit. This is often a good test to perform to make sure the warning system is working properly. This can also be done using the leads that go to each temperature sensor in the cylinder heads to verify continuity through the engine harness and operation of the warning horn itself.

[wiliermdb]

Thank you Rich_V174SS.

That's what I needed to know. The "lamp cord" description was just that, a description. It is factory and it looks exactly like black electrical cord you'd find on an extension cord or lamp. The connections on the pickup are sealed in a hardened gel so it is factory.  The original connections on the motor end of said cord are long gone and nothing matched up so I just wanted to be sure before I just picked one to be the ground.

One step closer to getting the 140 running. I need a new exhaust seal for the lower unit since one of my four legged children decided to make off with it while I had my back turned. Rubber makes a great chew toy.

[GCarlover]

I found a wiring diagram on Maxrules.com but it shows a common tan wire that is shared with the overheat sensors.  (Port side of block) So I don't think you can reverse the wires or it won't work right.  Had to disconnect mine because for some reason it starts the 20 sec warning with a full tank.  The tan wire that connects to one side of the double wire must go through a solid state switch to make it intermittant.  You can see it as a sealed unit on the top part of the tank. I would advise to hook it up with the sender dry and see if it works and switch wires if you have to.  Don't think it will wreck anything.  Normally to check the buzzer you ground the tan wire.