Author Topic: Greggs Profile of "Boatless"  (Read 106531 times)

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Offline 75starflight

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Re: Greggs Profile of "Boatless"
« Reply #260 on: August 12, 2012, 11:33:36 AM »
When I got the Starflite it did the same exact thing. I ended up getting a fuse panel and mounting it under the dash and running power from the switch(battery connection) to the fuse panel and then ground back to the battery. That solved all my issues. It was a little bit of wire work, but I knew i would have a good power source and good grounds.
1975 v-179 starflite

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: Greggs Profile of "Boatless"
« Reply #261 on: August 12, 2012, 01:17:58 PM »
Key has to be on for running/mooring lights to work also.

Fuse panel sounds like a good winter project !

Offline Retro Performance

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Re: Greggs Profile of "Boatless"
« Reply #262 on: August 12, 2012, 01:37:20 PM »
There should be a Purple wire going to the 12 volt terminal on your Tachometer and other gauges......sounds like someone tapped onto that to power accessories......That boat had to have an accesssory lead(positive and negitive) from the factory.......

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: Greggs Profile of "Boatless"
« Reply #263 on: August 12, 2012, 01:48:54 PM »
Ya every thing seem to come off the gauges and power must come from control box.
There was a radio and cig./accessorie plug coming off gauges also... but have been removed ...

My V-156 had a power & ground wire coming off battery to running light switch, then to running lights.
That was the only wiring in boat ... LOL

What gauge wire should I use ?

Offline Retro Performance

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Re: Greggs Profile of "Boatless"
« Reply #264 on: August 12, 2012, 02:06:53 PM »
Depends on your power needs.......I think maybe 12 guage mains from battery to fuse panel(positive and negitive) would support your needs. Positive should have a 20 amp fuseholder or breaker near battery post connection. 16 gauge from fuse panel to switches/accessories etc (I think)............Starflite, what gauge did you use?

Offline 75starflight

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Re: Greggs Profile of "Boatless"
« Reply #265 on: August 12, 2012, 02:58:33 PM »
I actually went over kill on it originally. I used 8 gauge wire from the switch to the fuse panel, but I am going to change it to 10 gauge to match the power wire coming to the switch . And then I used the same 8 gauge wire to run back to the battery for the ground.
Here is a picture of my setup, it is only half full. Anything that is connected to it is powered with out the switch turned on.

1975 v-179 starflite

Offline MarkS

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Re: Greggs Profile of "Boatless"
« Reply #266 on: August 19, 2012, 10:08:12 AM »
I'm going to make a cover to go over mine, but here's what it looks like now.

(Cole Hersee makes small circuit breakers that snap in place of fuses, seemed like the way to go?)
« Last Edit: April 21, 2018, 12:33:28 AM by Hyperacme »
Mark
1978 SSV-176

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: Greggs Profile of "Boatless"
« Reply #267 on: August 21, 2012, 09:10:36 AM »
All most missed posts with all the stuff going on ... LOL
Both look very clean and tidy, mine is a rats nest of cut wires and a bad lay out.
All power (runnin lights, horn) come off control box ...

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: Greggs Profile of "Boatless"
« Reply #268 on: September 08, 2012, 08:24:10 PM »
Hard to see , let alone get at wires for horn switch, but a little wigglin' around got it workin' !
What a wimpy horn ... LOL

Wish floor/transom fix was that easy ...

Offline AlanZG666

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Re: Greggs Profile of "Boatless"
« Reply #269 on: August 23, 2021, 07:01:33 PM »
Hi guys where is Clever?
Clever is great prop !!!