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General Discussion / Re: 1973 Glastron Carlson CV-16 Restoration
« Last post by CamCobalt on Today at 07:52:38 PM »
#1   You would only need to grind out areas that you remove old wood, if your keeping your stringer, you wouldn't need to grind around it. You would have to grind old resin where floor wood meets hull. Red line in picture #1 ..

#2  I don't remember where you live, but I just went to Express Composite and told them what I was doing and they got me everything I needed.
It was about 10 years ago and don't remember exact detail of which glass I used.
I didn't count on resin to seal seat boxes and side panels some had to go back for more resin.

#3  There are three kinds of resin ..
Polyester .. Oldest resin, your boat was made with it
Vinylester .. Newest form of ployester resin (kind of) better then ployester.
Epoxy .. strongest but pretty expensive and no nasty smells.

You would use which ever resin you chose to do everything .. I thinned down my resin to do seat boxes and side panels so it would soak in and wasn't used for strength, just to seal from water.

#4  I didn't foam my hull, others have .. maybe others could add info on subject.

#5  Some on forum have painted and others have re gelled there boats  ..  I am clueless on this subject also ..
Some reading material ..

Glastron Carlson CV-23 Rebuild Top to Bottom
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=3740.0

1984 intimidator restoration (new gel / flake)
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=8136.0

Sure .. PM me your phone number ..

So if you have to grind where the resin binds the floor to the hull, I would be removing the fiberglass from the strakes as well and re-fiberglassing those when I do the new floor? And that resin used to bind the plywood is also used to coat the plywood and let it soak in correct?

Unfortunately I live in southern Indiana and donít have any marinas near me (I really really wish I did) so Iím sorry for all the questions but you all are my source (& YouTube) for the knowledge to do this haha!

Thank you for the reading material, I will take a look
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Classified / Wanted to Buy / OMC Raker 13 1/2" X 22"
« Last post by David CVX-16 on Today at 06:50:22 PM »
For Sale: OMC Raker 13 1/2"  X  22" Part # 394760. Almost brand new, three surface blemishes polished out (photos of blemishes available). Raker props are known for excellent bow life, top end speed, vented hub, cupped high rake blades. $450 shipped within USA.
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General Discussion / Re: 1973 Glastron Carlson CV-16 Restoration
« Last post by Plugcheck on Today at 05:38:45 PM »
Definitely a lot of choices to make.  I quickly read through the thread, you stated you were leaving the center stringer, have you drilled into to check?  It is amazing how they can look good, but be rotten.   Same goes for transoms, can look great, but be blackened mush 6" from the bottom.   Have you considered a composite rebuild rather than wood?    The process of using resin cut with acetone on new wood is twofold, one it sinks in to help resist water intrusion, and second, it provides some bite for future glasswork to bond to it.    I suppose the question to ask is what is the goal here?  Keep boat forever as it a family keepsake?   Rebuild for function and have fun for a few years then upgrade to bigger/faster?  As for flotation foam, there are several schools of thought.  The new stuff doesn't absorb water like the old.   Use 2lb density foam if going that way.   I like it under the floor as it quiets the wave noise on the hull.   Most boats have enough foam in the sides and under hood to keep the craft on the surface when flooded, a positive safety point, verify on your boat.   Just having displacement foam under floor will not keep your boat on the surface.     You mentioned "itchy" from glass work, particularly tear out.  I wear jeans, hoodie, and a good respirator and don't have any issues.   If unsure, wear a good tyvek suit or equivalent.    Best of luck.
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Classified / Wanted to Buy / Re: GCOTD
« Last post by Hyperacme on Today at 03:25:21 PM »
1978 Glastron cvx 16  /  Notre-Dame-de-la-Paix, QC  /  $4,000
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1678876828976783/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post

Vintage boat 1978 original 3 liters 150 forces rolls a1 all the dials are functional,radio CD sonar engine new 2014 me it's been 3 years I took it 3 times.
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Classified / Wanted to Buy / Re: GCOTD
« Last post by Hyperacme on Today at 03:13:23 PM »
Glastron GT160  /  Flint, MI  /  $2,100
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/216620096577800/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post

IF POSTED IT IS AVAILABLE PLEASE DON'T ASK IF IT IS AVAILABLE
**POSTED FOR A FRIEND IN LENNON MI
**Boat located in LENNON MI
MUST SET UP AN APPOINTMENT TO SEE IT IN PERSON LOCATED IN LENNON MI
--INBOX ME TO SET UP AN APPOINTMENT TO LOOK AT IT
TY
JARED
Need a little rear floor board word --EASY FIX  ...     ::)
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General Discussion / Re: 1973 Glastron Carlson CV-16 Restoration
« Last post by Hyperacme on Today at 02:47:53 PM »
#1   You would only need to grind out areas that you remove old wood, if your keeping your stringer, you wouldn't need to grind around it. You would have to grind old resin where floor wood meets hull. Red line in picture #1 ..

#2  I don't remember where you live, but I just went to Express Composite and told them what I was doing and they got me everything I needed.
It was about 10 years ago and don't remember exact detail of which glass I used.
I didn't count on resin to seal seat boxes and side panels some had to go back for more resin.

#3  There are three kinds of resin ..
Polyester .. Oldest resin, your boat was made with it
Vinylester .. Newest form of ployester resin (kind of) better then ployester.
Epoxy .. strongest but pretty expensive and no nasty smells.

You would use which ever resin you chose to do everything .. I thinned down my resin to do seat boxes and side panels so it would soak in and wasn't used for strength, just to seal from water.

#4  I didn't foam my hull, others have .. maybe others could add info on subject.

#5  Some on forum have painted and others have re gelled there boats  ..  I am clueless on this subject also ..
Some reading material ..

Glastron Carlson CV-23 Rebuild Top to Bottom
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=3740.0

1984 intimidator restoration (new gel / flake)
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=8136.0

Sure .. PM me your phone number ..



7
General Discussion / Re: 1973 Glastron Carlson CV-16 Restoration
« Last post by CamCobalt on Today at 01:47:18 PM »
Thank you Gregg. That information definitely helps out a lot!

So i coat with that and then fiberglass the top, more of my questions after reading through other peoples threads remain.

1) My stringer (single stringer) is in good shape. I am not replacing it and am wondering why people completely grind down all the fiberglass on the hull. I was not planning on doing this but I don't exactly know why people do this.



2) I am planning on binding my plywood with 1708 fiberglass and then I believe using 1.5 chopstrand ontop so that I will be able to paint the fiberglass for my deck (Im not planning on installing carpet or anything)



3) I assume the resin used to coat the plywood is very different than the resin used to harden the fiberglass correct?



4) I am planning on (after the deck is re-fiberglassed) drilling some holes and filling the hull with foam - I don't know what type of foam or anything to use and there's so many different opinions on whether it's needed or not



5) I am also clueless on the exterior of the boat. I was going to sand it down to the paint (remove the gelcoat). Then do I simply repaint it like this?



6) When painting the deck...It is possible to paint the rough fiberglass if sanding and then priming it? Or is the 1.5 chopstrand required to give it a better look?


Also, Gregg, If you would be willing to chat on the phone or facetime sometime this week I would greatly appreciate it. I know that's a tall order and probably strange thing to ask but I'm starting to feel like I'm in over my head. But once I get my bearings and know the details, my research would start to prove useful...i just don't know the basics haha!
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Classified / Wanted to Buy / Re: GCOTD
« Last post by Hyperacme on Today at 01:42:30 PM »
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Classified / Wanted to Buy / Re: GCOTD
« Last post by Hyperacme on Today at 01:38:01 PM »
Classic 1981 GX150 Glastron Boat  /  Isanti, MN  /  $9,000
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/918499915652451/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post

Glastron GX150 Boat, motor,  and  trailer.   New custom fitted cover.   All original  carpet,  upholstery, and windshields. 
Matching  trailer has good tires and ready to go.
115 hp. Mercury.  New custom  stainless steel  prop.  Will do 60 +mph!
RARE BOAT. Only made 2 years.  Very  low hours, always stored inside.   Mint original  condition.   MUST SEE!
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Classified / Wanted to Buy / Re: GCOTD
« Last post by Hyperacme on Today at 01:32:27 PM »
#37 of 55 made ..

2012 Glastron's Collector Boat - $17,500
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/boa/d/andover-2012-glastrons-collector-boat/7318449642.html

2012 Glastron GT-160 Rare Collector's Edition Boat. Only 55 of these beauties were made and this is #37.

Includes the following features:

Mercury Pro XS 115 h.p. - Low Hours
16 ft. Custom EZ Loader Trailer, Custom Snap On Cover, Elite-5 Chirp GPS/Locator, New Battery w/disconnect, Trim/Cruise Meter, Retractable Swim Ladder, Ski Pylon, LED Bow Lights.

EXCELLENT CONDITION - Must See to Appreciate.
PHONE CALLS ONLY (NO TEXTS OR EMAILS)
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