update

[TomLund]

Well motor is pulled out along with transome assembly. Nice to find that the transome is good standing after all these years oh wait it hasn't been used very much since 1972 lol. I drain all the oil in the inline 6 wow there there was alot of water. Now its time to glass in a new board for the 4 cyclinder and make my way to putting parts back on to the best of my know how.

A Thank you goes to Retro for dropping off the wire harness in my mailbox i truely appreciate it

Tom

[Rich_V174SS]

You'll most likely have to modify the hole for the newer transom assembly like I did.

Old Keyhole:


Template alignment:


Modified Keyhole:

[Rich_V174SS]

Here's the procedure to update the hole using an MR or Alpha template:

[TomLund]

Hey Rich will i have to do that useing a mr drive i thought the holes were close to the same i noticed on one of of your photos that you had a half shaped circle i do not have that same shape what would that have been from just curious


thanks Tom

[TomLund]

thats funny as i was typing you wee posting lol

[Rich_V174SS]

If you mean the small half-circle at the bottom it was where the hydraulic tilt hose was located on mine so they provided a space for it.

[TomLund]

Hey Rich what did you use for a template I have a cork gasket off the donor boat with mr drive would that a good enough template to use its loos like it off a little bit and looks like the holes line just curious


Thanks

[Rich_V174SS]

I used this plywood template traced from someone else's boat when I used to work at a boat shop. I'll see if I can borrow it and make a cardboard copy from it if you want.

[Rich_V174SS]

Hey Rich what did you use for a template I have a cork gasket off the donor boat with mr drive would that a good enough template to use its loos like it off a little bit and looks like the holes line just curious


Thanks

Can you post a picture of your gasket positioned up against the keyhole of the V174? I'd like to see the arrangement/differences. Also, does your replacement transom assembly have a groove to install the O-ring gasket? Makes me wonder if you can use the newer style seal or will have to use a new old style flat gasket. Post a picture of the transom assembly too.

Thanks

[TomLund]

Well here is some very very bad news the transome is shot found a ton of roten wood just my luck lol. I am thinking i might bid  farewell to the 66 as i have no idea how to build a transome thought i would share the bad news .


Thanks guys

[Rich_V174SS]

Everything is fixable if you have the time and patience. I just really hate to see that boat go to waste, it would break my heart. Is your transom any worse than what mine was? The lower third of mine was rotted on one side and oil soaked. I bisected it and replaced the lower section before I rebuilt the stringers and floor. It seems to be holding up.

[TomLund]

Not sure but it looks worse then that as far as i can tell. At this point i am sure that i have no more money to throw at it considering i have limited knowledge what i am doing. The floor and stringers are good as far as i can tell i redid the floors 2 years ago and they were good.


Tom

[TomLund]

A big THANK YOU to Jeff for helping me get the old rotted transome out and ner ready for a new one. Yes i will be keeping her and seeing though the project found out transomes don't look that hard to do.


Tom

[Rich_V174SS]

Awesome, that's what I like to hear! They're really not that hard. For the wood I used 2 pieces of three-quarter inch marine ply laminated together with regular fiberglassing resin and 2 layers of glass mat in between. The tricky part is squeezing the new one in place so it adheres to the fiberglass. For that I used Laminating Resin, it's thicker and takes longer to cure which gives you plenty of working time. Use LOTS of it to fill voids and let it ooze out from around the sides. I also used a layer of glass mat in between to help as a bonding surface. Using existing holes in your transom you can probably set up some sort of clamping arrangement like I did to squeeze it into place. I left mine clamped for a week before continuing. Then fiberglassed around the edges and over the whole face of the wood.

[Jason]

A big THANK YOU to Jeff for helping me get the old rotted transome out and ner ready for a new one. Yes i will be keeping her and seeing though the project found out transomes don't look that hard to do.


Tom

That is awesome. Jeff is the man!! He's gonna need another "Glasie" award.

[TomLund]

With talking to Jeff last night i am sure it will be a 2 peice transome because there is not enough room to put the whole piece in as one i will stager the seams just like drywall(which i am good at) and glass over all of it when its all in. Just so i am right on this glass resin 2 pieces to together and screw them to each other. then install to the transome glass resin to transome and clamp then install the top piece and glass mat over all of it and finish. Sand and paint (which i am good at) lol. If i am missing any steps please let me know


Thanks Tom

[Rich_V174SS]

Sounds like a plan to me. Total thickness of the transom including the outside fiberglass layer should be about 2 inches.

[OleRed]

You are right Rich,  2" is about the minumum transom thickness. just a shade under is ok because there are washers under the nuts, and the inner mount is 1/2 thick, I'm not Sure about the MR's, but the studs in the Alpha assy's have 2 1/2 from the threads to the gimbal housing, the transom on my boat came out just shy of 2 1/2 inches, and enough threads on the studs to go through the nuts with washers.

Good work Tom