Author Topic: Floor in Glastron  (Read 6338 times)

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Offline 17ireid

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Floor in Glastron
« on: April 16, 2015, 03:48:49 PM »
Hi,

I'm in the process of restoring a 1980 CVX-16, and I have had worries about my floor, it seems very solid from looking at it and when its under pressure (2 people in it while on the trailer, I try to avoid that though). It was left out in the rain once and water leaked through the floor for about a few months and I took a vacuum to it daily, since then I have been very meticulous about water. I know that Carlsons around this age there are horror stories of the transom and floor wood being nothing but oatmeal. I have already done lots of hull (body) work since the last owner was a bad driver and caretaker haha, had the boat painted, and the boat is all in one piece (gas tank, and cap). Also since I am a jobless 16 year old so I am strapped for cash at this point. So I have been hesitant to go about a floor rebuild. I am considering putting a 4" access hole in the floor to gain access if needed to air it out and such, is this structurally a good idea and there is a place I can put this that is behind or under the rear bench, that won't hit a stringer I could go about the clothes hanger trick and drill holes and probe around but the less holes the better. So sorry to cut to the chase now but basically should I worry about having to tear the boat down or leave it as is, and make sure it is dry at all times.

Also I am considering painting the floor with Latex paint before carpeting, is this a terrible idea? Thanks!

Offline Hyperacme

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Re: Floor in Glastron
« Reply #1 on: April 16, 2015, 04:13:27 PM »
Look thru the CVX16 rebuild threads here, should give you an idea of what's under floor and how transom is constructed ...
 http://www.classicglastron.com/phpbb/viewforum.php?f=34

If wood and foam are wet, there's no way vent holes will dry it ...
Was boat stored out side with drain plug removed and front of boat tipped up ?
Are / is there any soft spots back under slash well ?
Is there any visible signs of fiberglass cracking around transom (inside or on outside) ?

Get a sharp pick or screw driver and crawl around poking area, pound on floor and listen for dull thuds.
If you have bad wood it will be easy to find because it rotted from the inside out and fiber glass will crack under your pressure of pushing on it.

" Also I am considering painting the floor with Latex paint before carpeting, is this a terrible idea? "

Only if your using green treated wood & epoxy ... LOL
« Last Edit: April 16, 2015, 04:26:39 PM by Hyperacme »

Offline Plugcheck

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Re: Floor in Glastron
« Reply #2 on: April 16, 2015, 05:34:25 PM »
Many on this site have performed a glastron floor/stringers rebuild.  Plenty of threads and pics to peruse.  Its a real job, but not impossible.  As for water proofing new wood, I have always used thinned fiberglass resin, it soaks in well.  Plenty of alternatives though.  My new floor has an entire single layer of glass resin, only painted in bilge.  Carpet on main floor.    Transom rot is the real issue as it supports the crafts engine.  As Greg stated, use a pick and pry bar along with close inspection.  Michael
Michael
1979 CVZ-18 388 CI Vortec Mouse
1980 CVX-16SS 140 Mercruiser
1979 CVX-16 Johnson 175
2002 Bennington 2275CC 90 Mercury
1985 Intimidator project
1989 Lowe 200 Redneck fishin Toon
2001 Godfrey Sweetwater pontoon 115 Rude

Offline 17ireid

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Re: Floor in Glastron
« Reply #3 on: April 16, 2015, 06:06:09 PM »
I will go through and try all of that, hopefully won't run into any problems. I'm glad there is such a knowledgable group willing to share their expertise. Thank you!

Offline Diamond Chad

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Re: Floor in Glastron
« Reply #4 on: April 16, 2015, 06:53:03 PM »
You might find this useful as long as the integrity of the transom is not in question.

http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=5388.0
2012 GTR 160 Collectors Edition
87 CVX-18 5.7 (Sold)
88 CVX-16 115 Merc  (Sold)
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Offline Fuzzbutt

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Re: Floor in Glastron
« Reply #5 on: April 16, 2015, 09:56:08 PM »
I did mine and it's not that difficult but it is also not cheap.

I have $150 odd dollars in 1/2" marine plywood alone used in the floor and transom (worth every cent)

There is 7-8 yards of a few different glass mat's and just over 6 gallons of resin.

All told I have $1200-$1500 in my rebuild and that includes new carpet but no other interior redo.

So in my (I've done it already) opinion I would do it again (not on my hull as I really did a strong job) but it isn't cheap and it's better to do it right than only partially do it.

If you only do the floor and don't involve the transom in any way figure needing a full sheet of plywood 1/2" thick. You will cover the bottom with a layer of resin and glass. The top layer will need a couple layers over the entire thing and it would be wise to layup a good amount at the edges where it bonds with the hull. With only doing the floor you would empty the hull and carefully cut and grind out the wood all the way to the fiberglass in the hull. If the rot is bad you will need to also remove the fuel tank rest and go all the way to the bow. With this option splitting the hull and deck shouldn't be needed. That will save time and a lot of hassle splitting it at they splash well. I'd still want to set aside at least a grand.

My recommendations are:
to go with only marine plywood. V153 has used composite. That would be my second choice.
To use premium polyester resin and get it fresh. Get the best measuring system as you can as it is very quick setting and mixing more than a pint at a time is difficult. If you can swing it a 5:1 epoxy would be a better choice and the stuff is easier to work with if you have time to figure out the right hardeners.
Go with 1708 biax cloth only. Don't bother with any other cloth and never get it from an auto parts store. This is a boat get it from a marine type supplier. You might as well figure you will need 24 feet in length at a minimum. You do not want to run out while you are laying it.

Finally if this is your first time when you are starting out start with an area you can mess up. The bottom of the floor. You may need to have a splice/seam in the board. That's not a problem.

P.S. Get a tyvec suit or three. Get a full charcoal canister respirator and use full latex or neoprene gloves taped to your suit. This basically needs to be treated like hasmat. You should not breath the dust and your skin will appreciate not getting the grinding dust on it. Expect on making a huge white powder mess. A shop vac with a hepa filter will be wise too.


To chime in on your paint idea. Well this is a boat. Latex paint is not appropriate for a boat. Hit the wood with a diluted mix of polyester resin then 2 layers of cloth & resin. The next  (top) layer can be gelcoat. I used an off white gel on mine and put a few coats down. Then glued carpet to it.

Oh and if you choose to drill holes in the floor keep this in mind genre is one "stringer" that acts like the keel. It is dead center in the hull. It is basically a 2x4 and is about 3" tall on average from the stern to about the front seat box area where it starts to taper. Don't drill that. The floor only covers the 3 foot wide area between the center chines. The rest of the "floor" is the top side of the bottom of the hull.

I don't think there there is a way to get air in at one end and get it to dry thru to the other end. Once the foam gets soaked it stays somewhat wet. Hold the bow up as high as possible. If you choose to replace ten floor skip the foam. There isn't that much below the floor and I chose not to reinstall it there.


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Offline Oldfishguy

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Re: Floor in Glastron
« Reply #6 on: April 16, 2015, 10:19:52 PM »
I will go through and try all of that, hopefully won't run into any problems. I'm glad there is such a knowledgable group willing to share their expertise. Thank you!


Welcome!

I love it, 16 and loving a classic.  Somehow I think we are all going to learn more from you, than you from us as we go along.  Post a few photos using Photobucket and let us see what you have. 

Things are looking good if you walk on the floor and it is not soft, they tend to rot out with a high predictability in the stern.  Same with transoms I'm sorry to say.  If it all looks good though, run it, and run it, and run it! Have fun with it, take your friends out.  Maybe someday you will replace the transom and floor, but maybe not this day, or year, or decade.  There are different levels of restoration you can do, and the littlest is nothing, and that is sometimes ok.  Then again if you have access to a shop, a few minor tools, a few spare bucks, and a little time, they can all be fixed.

Have fun with it, none of your friends will have anything like it . . . EVER. 

PS. No latex paint, wait till you replace it and then resin coat the crap out of it.
       No holes in the floor for air venting; tip boat up as high as you can to drain out.
       Lay on your belly and poke at transom with a screwdriver.  What do you find?
       

http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=5298.msg71670#msg71670
« Last Edit: April 16, 2015, 10:35:16 PM by Oldfishguy »
1972 1/2 Glastron CV 16
1973 Chrysler 120

Offline Silver GT-150

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Re: Floor in Glastron
« Reply #7 on: April 16, 2015, 10:48:43 PM »
Nicely said OFG, and great advice from everyone.  It's great to see a 16 year-old appreciate these classic boats. 

Enjoy and restore in moderation.

Offline 17ireid

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Re: Floor in Glastron
« Reply #8 on: May 02, 2015, 06:59:05 PM »
Thank you all, sorry I haven't looked at this recently, I think the floor is pretty solid throughout thankfully, as Old Fish guy said maybe one day I'll have to go through it all but so far it looks like it wont be today. The latex paint I thought might have been a bad idea since not the toughest stuff, I was just getting a little tired of looking at the bare floor I guess. Ill try to get some pictures uploaded, thanks for all the advice!

-Isaiah