Removing Cap from CVX-16

[17ireid]

Hi,

I am considering eventually removing the cap of my CVX 16 in order to better clean it out and repair what is broken, so far I'm pretty sure the floor and transom is solid. But, was wondering how to cut or remove the cap from the transom of the boat. Thanks!

Isaiah

[Plugcheck]

      I'm not as experienced performing this operation on a 16, but I have on a CVZ and Intimidator, both I/O, I'm sure OB powered craft have further complexity in this area.  Most folks only split the halves as a last resort of a major rebuild.  If your floor and stringers are good, not sure if I would perform this operation.   Some folks have actually replaced floors without splitting.  If OB you need to pull engine, if I/O it can stay.  Maybe someone else can correct me if I'm wrong, but here goes.

1.   Pull the three rub rail ends.  One on the bow, then one each on either side in the rear.
2.   Pull the rubber rub rail, remove screws along the aluminum rub rail to remove the aluminum pieces that hold the rubber.
3.   In most cases, a second set of screws need to be removed that are hidden under the aluminum rub rail.
4.    If a boarding ladder is in place, you need to remove it since they generally attach to both sides.
5.   Using a small prybar, you can go around the seam and start opening the gap.   Thin pieces of wood help to hold this gap open.   Sometimes there is sealant, foam, or other material used to help seal this edge in place.
6.   In most cases Glastron or previous owners have glassed in the connection between the halves at the rear.  You will need to identify this connection and cut it.   I have used knives, chisels, sawzall's,  roto tools, and the new multi tools.   I actually like the multi tool the best, cuts nicely and can get in tight areas.  Head and cutter rotate to allow access, lays flat against existing glas. 
7.    There may be some connectivity involved if you have a console.  My CVZ had tie ins to the front seats to the floor, and the Timi had a custom(aftermarket) pseudo console thingy that I had to remove.
8.   Eventually you will need to disconnect wires, steering cable, throttle/drive controls,  fuel and vent lines  but I have always done this after preparing to separate the halves.


OK, so this is just the basics.   Go slow and don't forced anything.   You will be surprised how delicate the halves are when apart.   Hope this helps, Michael.

[thedeuceman]

in addition with an outboard, the cap is attached to the inside of transom.
bonded on the Scarface, and usually tabs on the 3 sides (under the splash well)
if the transom is good this bond will quite strong.
need to cut the tabbing off and use a long blade on a multi tool to get between the transom and inside of the splash well.
i have only rebuilt 1 outboard boat so far, but in my opinion, if the transom is solid you should think about not splitting the hull.

[Hyperacme]

"I am considering eventually removing the cap of my CVX 16 in order to better clean it out and repair what is broken, so far I'm pretty sure the floor and transom is solid"

That's a lot of time, money and work to split deck/hull.
What needs repair ?
Floors are easy to tell when there bad, transoms aren't so easy to tell.

Most pictures are missing now ... but do some reading here ...
http://www.classicglastron.com/phpbb/viewforum.php?f=34&sid=e987e24113b0fdafc1402600be11891f

[17ireid]

Thank you for your replies I'm very much a newbie, that makes sense as it does seem to be a bit of a operation, and the floor seems good, I haven't taken core samples of the transom but I think its pretty solid although the gelcoat/sealant at the top of the edge is severely cracked but I think its just cosmetic. My reason for wanting to remove the top was I want to remove the gas tank and refinishing it also wiring. Also the forward section is very very dirty like an inch of dust and crud, if I could get the gas tank out without removing the top my problems would be solved. The tank is drained but it seems hard to take the bolts out. Also random question might be silly but was the CVX-16 made in 1980?

[Hyperacme]

Not sure if tank will come out ...
Do some reading on the CGOA site ...
http://www.classicglastron.com/phpbb/viewforum.php?f=34

The brochures show a CVX16SS but no CVX16 O/B.
Brochure aren't 100% on what was what.
In 1981 CVX16's turned into C500's

All G/C brochures are here in low res.

Carlson
http://www.cgoamn.com/52.html

Glastron
http://www.cgoamn.com/12.html

OR

Here in High Res. PDF's ...
http://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=2908.0

[17ireid]

Yeah, I was looking at those and thats what got me thinking. It might be a 1978, I don't know. I know how the gas tank comes out it's just really tight for a wrench since it's held in by bolts on two strips of wood that clamp on the edges of the tank if that makes sense.

[Hyperacme]

What is your serial number ?
Would be on the right side of your stern.

Have you removed the board in front of fuel tank ?
You might have to remove seats to get it out.

[Jason]

I am sure the CVX16 is a little different then the CV16 or in my case the CV16SS but like gregg said, remove the kick board and that will open things up. I was able to replace my tank pretty easily and on the CV16SS you have a center ski locker to work around.

[Hyperacme]

Is that an 18 gal. tank Jason ?

Work involved to get tank out would be far easier then removing deck to remove tank.

This thread still has pictures ...
http://www.classicglastron.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=6642

Looks different then a CV's set up.

[Rosscoe]

Potentially adding more work to splitting it, your rub rail could be riveted on instead of screws.

[17ireid]

My boat is already gutted all upholstery out no engine, pretty much nothing except the fuel and steering system is left so removing stuff isn't a problem, I think though in the CVX there isn't a kickboard really, but it rests on top of this little frame and two floatation on either side with maybe three inches on either side of the tank which is where the bolts are Ill try and get pictures.

In case you are wondering what I'm doing I'm getting it ready as my project for a high school composite class I'm taking as a senior next year, which will involve a full restore including lots of fixes in the hull and new gelcoat. Originally I bought it when I was 14 and was going to restore it, but I decided might as well be patient and do things right and we just so happen to have a very good composite tech program at our school.

I'm not positive about the serial number Ill have to go check for sure Ill also get pictures of the fuel tank, but I think its CVX16830380 which I've interpreted as CVX-16 March 1980 I could be wrong but I know the last digits are 80.

[Hyperacme]

OK ...
I see what your saying about design now, totally different then CV design.
Looks like you have the perfect time and place to do a rebuild.

[Jason]

Yea, that's a bit different......

My tank is a 16 gallon Gregg

[Hyperacme]

Rayar3's post ...
http://www.classicglastron.com/phpbb/viewtopic.php?f=34&t=9339

Assuming you've already removed the center console if you have one. Carefully remove the carpet from the kick panel. I've seen them screwed in and glassed in from the factory. My 82 CVX-16 was glassed in. You'll have to carefully cut the glass out and remove that panel to be able to remove the tank. The tank will have some flotation boxes and ply supports and such holding it in. Once you remove that kick panel it's a pretty easy job. Just be careful to not mess up the carpet so you can re-use it. Also removing the front seats makes a lot of room since you'll be laying down quite a bit. And when re-installing the kick panel make sure to give it a fresh coat or make a new one if it's rotten and reinstall it with screws in case you need to remove it again. A plastic tank will slide right up in there too if you need to replace it, just be sure to use good fuel line that can withstand ethanol. It'll save headaches in the future.

He also posted a good picture of deck to hull ...

[17ireid]

Yes I'm very excited for the class and the rebuild! Also thank you for finding that information it helps a lot I probably wouldn't have messed with the kick panel without knowing that, thank you very much! This information makes the project seem a much more possible now knowing I can get access to the bow without having to cut the transom off.

[17ireid]

Also as an answer to the other question if anyone is interested, in 1980 they did produce the CVX 16 and mostly in a not very tasteful green (Sorry Glastron) color which mine is but it was in super bad shape so I thought it could have faded from a blue to a green or something. As there are lots of pictures of Blue/Blue CVX-16's anyway I know it's original and possibly a rare color but I'm probably gonna gel it a different color.

[Hyperacme]

The late 70's to early 80's Blue flake turns to a green with age.
Remember a 1981 C500 owner asking if G/C ever put blue vinyl seats in a green flake boat.
The older blue flake seems to hold it's color better.

Found picture of the 1980 CVX16 in one of the brochures ...

[17ireid]

Huh, well that is strange, guess I was right the first time. I found a green one on ebay and the gelcoat seemed to be in really good condition so I assumed there were green ones, thanks for the info and the picture!