Trouble with the cv-18

[nes-cv23]

Having trouble with the 18 I did a couple years ago.. we think it’s something in the wiring??  Has a 302 Ford in it with a Volvo. Have not been able to get it to more than fire once and then nothing…  at this point we want to bypass all the wiring and get it running like it’s on a motor stand with nothing connected, then we can tell if it’s wires or motor.. but.. how do you run them with nothing??   Just power the coil and jump the starter?   Anyone??

[thedeuceman]

Yep, that’s it. I usually use a ballast resistor on the coil but if you’re only going to run it for a few minutes to check that it runs it’ll be fine without.


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[Plugcheck]

You could monitor the voltage at the coil to see if it changes.   Not sure if your ignition uses a ballast resistor, the coil itself may be printed as such.  For testing, you could bypass it if not able to be located.   How about the safety interlock?   My 18 did nearly the same thing.  The ignition would get voltage when cranking, it would fire, then you let off starter and it would die.    If the starter cranks, you shouldn't have to bypass anything there.   Appears to have electric choke, that should have constant power when key on.   Use that as bypass to coil, or use a meter or test lamp to see if it is dropping.   I assumed you are getting fuel, but carb issues can cause similar results.   

[Plugcheck]

I noticed from the pictures its missing a couple spark plug wires, may not cause the issue your having, but certainly won't run very well.

[nes-cv23]

  missing plug wires…. That’s what the motor looked like when I got it.. now it’s all cleaned up and has all new ignition with pertronic instead of points.  Run nice for a while and now no go..

[Jason]

Put the points back it. Bet it will run like a champ!

[75starflight]

I had a pertronix fail - it would fire up cold and run nicely. I would get away from the dock and open the throttle and cruise and then shutdown and would not start. 

was a frustration in trouble shooting this issue. I did as jason suggested and put the points back in.

No more problems

[Plugcheck]

I would tend to agree with having a spare set of points and condenser on board for emergencies, but I will never go back permanently to a standard Kettering ignition full time.     In nearly ever case of failed electronic ignition that I've encountered has been the result of outside issues.    Poor power input, wrong coils, incorrect use of ballast, leaky cap/rotor, poor grounding,  etc.     Use a matched coil, solid installation, and quality wires/cap/rotor and the system should perform well for many years.  I think pertronix has a 2 or 3 year warranty, maybe it could still be under warranty?