Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: 76bayflite on September 15, 2013, 08:09:34 PM
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Started to disassemble the ole mercruiser today and naturally I took pictures to remember what it's supposed to look like. Got the cooling hoses, exhaust manifolds, and carburetor off. Next will be all the wires and etc bolted to the intake so I can take that off.
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Camera is your best friend in these rebuilds. A long time can pass between tear down and reassembly and those photos are priceless to remember where everything goes.
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I would pull the Lh or Port side head first. That seemed to be the one that was getting water into it when we were messing with the plugs. The very rear cylinder on that side. When you get it going again change the oil a bunch of times in a very short period. If there was water in there you want to get it all flushed out and should do it sooner that later. If water sits on the bearings over the winter that would not be good.
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I would also take the heads into a machine shop. Have them at least checked to make sure they are not warped or cracked. Wouldn't hurt to have them pressure tested too. Some Napa's have machine shops that can do this.
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I would also take the heads into a machine shop. Have them at least checked to make sure they are not warped or cracked. Wouldn't hurt to have them pressure tested too. Some Napa's have machine shops that can do this.
Amen to that! I know first hand that is a good idea.
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Sean sorry to hear you didn't even get one season out of it before you had to fix the motor.
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On the plus side I'm getting pretty good at working on mercruisers. Think I still prefer outboards.
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if you have ever worked on a small block chevy this will be a piece of cake.
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Got the intake and port side head off tonight, everything looks in order except for all the milky oil. Tomorrow I'll pull the other head and hopefully see a bad gasket, could the intake gasket be the cause of all the water getting in?
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Definitely. If the head gasket is bad water could leak into the cylinders and/or into the oil return galley which drains down into the oil pan.
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Make sure you keep your pushrods and lifters in the order and cylinder they came from.
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So the starboard cylinders were all full of water but the head gasket looked ok, does that mean a cracked head? Does that rule out the intake gasket being the issue?
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Seems to me it could either be head gasket, intake gasket, cracked head, or warped head. Best thing you can do is bring in the heads to a machine shop have them pressure tested, checked for flatness, cracks, ect.
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If the head gasket looked ok the problem could be in the exhaust manifold or elbow joint. I just did a job for someone that was getting water in 6 of his 8 cylinders and that's where the problem was. I replaced the manifolds and elbows.
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Do you know of a good place to take them Jason? I suppose there is a chance it's the exaust too. Too many variables here.
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I guess exhaust manifolds could do that too. Actually, now that I think about it, I know my dad had that problem with a 4.3 Volvo. Basically hydrolocked the motor. Maybe the check valves got hung up???
Just about any machine shop can do the tests on the head. Some Napa's have a machine shop. Otherwise my buddy down in Inver Grove Heights can do it. http://sampsonracingengines.com/ (http://sampsonracingengines.com/)
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I would have the heads checked out. If I remember right didnt you get it pretty hot at one point? Could have just warped one of the heads.
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Almost like Christmas today. Only other theory is I don't have the flapper in my Y-pipe, could water get in the engine from there? If so is there a solution that doesn't involve pulling the engine?
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You shouldn't have to pull the engine to replace Y-pipe flappers. If you have old log style manifolds you'll probably only need to pull the elbows off, for center rise manifolds you pull the rear downward facing elbow pipes out.
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He has the old style log manifolds. That drive system ran fine for the 3 years I had it in my CVX18 so I am a little suspect about the flappers missing. I do wonder if the motor is sitting low enough below the waterline of the boat that water could be pushing up and into the motor. The motor that came out of it had centerise manifolds w/standard risers.
Rich would log manifolds be more suseptable to something like that than the centerise manifolds or no difference. Just a thought, I could be way off base.
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Rich would log manifolds be more suseptable to something like that than the centerise manifolds or no difference. ?
It could be. That's probably the reason the manufacturers went to center rise manifolds. It put the elbows up higher and further away from the transom to make it harder for water to wash up into the engine.
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Sean said he got it pretty hot. It burnt the u-joint and exhaust bellows out of it. It could have burnt/ warped the flappers. I still think I would have the block and heads checked for warping and or cracks. If it was hot enough to melt the bellows then it could have done lots of other stuff as well.
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I'm getting the heads looked at this week, just want to have everything covered before I put it back together.
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Just put new flappers in as well. They are cheap and easy. let us know what the machine shop says.
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I didn't realize the motor had been overheated to that extent. If the bellows were melted the flappers are probably toast. Money well spent to have the heads checked out..
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Sean
Can you take pics looking into the cylinders. Or just look your self. If water was coming into the cylinder itself, the top of the piston should look like its wiped clean. Or a lot cleaner than the others. That would give you a starting point or area to look extra close. There is water in there some how you know that. I wouldn't put it back together until you find the problem. IMO
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Cylinders found with water weren't different from the other side.