Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: Scott in nh on May 26, 2020, 07:27:55 AM
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Some of you may be following my slow progress on my CVZ.
If so you know I am getting closer to putting the motor back in.
Before I do that I want to prime the oil pump which obviously requires putting oil in.
Before I do that, I want to know if I should add an oil drain kit or?
If I do, I have an unused garboard - has anyone ever attached the drain hose to that?
Thanks,
Scott
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On my cv16ss I run a hose permanently attached to the drain plug on the oil pan through the transom drain hole to drain the oil. It’s slow and hard to get it routed through the transom hole but gets everything out. On the CV23 I pump it through the dipstick which is pretty easy but I imagine that oil pan has some nasty sludge in it.
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On my cv16ss I run a hose permanently attached to the drain plug on the oil pan through the transom drain hole to drain the oil. It’s slow and hard to get it routed through the transom hole but gets everything out. On the CV23 I pump it through the dipstick which is pretty easy but I imagine that oil pan has some nasty sludge in it.
Thanks - On the CV16SS, do you have a valve between the motor and the transom, or is it ok to just let some motor oil occupy the hose at all times?
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I have the same setup as Jason does on my v179. the kit for the hose says to just secure it above the drain plug and no oil will leak. I added a valve to shut mine off just to be safe.
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Yep, I did a Fumoto Valve with snap on drain tube.
http://fumotousa.com/about-fumoto-valves.php (http://fumotousa.com/about-fumoto-valves.php)
I did the 'N' series on my CVZ with permanently attached drain hose, then the 'S' series on my C-512. That one allows you to snap on the drain hose and remove it when done.
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Thanks - is the lever clip useful for extra safety or not required (or not easily usable)?
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Thanks - is the lever clip useful for extra safety or not required (or not easily usable)?
Its for safety only. Honestly, in a protected boat engine compartment, it'd be unlikely to open on its own...though I suppose it would protect a hard hit from jarring it open. (Super unlikely though.) I always kept it in...figured why not...its only once a year in my case.
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I've got a 1979 CVX 18, with the 5.0/228. I used a pump to pump the oil up through the dipstick tube, which is threaded on my motor.
I don't have the Mercury part number with me right now, but here is a Quicksilver pump I found on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/Mercury-Precision-Crankcase-Pump-802889A/dp/B001QFEVNA (https://www.amazon.com/Mercury-Precision-Crankcase-Pump-802889A/dp/B001QFEVNA)
If you do a search for MerCruiser/Mercury Oil Drain Pump 802889A1, you can find them on ebay etc.
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I use the drain hose Kit as stated. Mine have 3/8 not with a cap. I use a pump (easer than getting through the bilge drain)
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The boat ramp is only a couple hundred yards from our camp, so out of water changes are pretty easy, and I will likely only need to change the oil once a year (the exception being the break-in oil). If it was otherwise I would probably get the pump.
So it looks like I will use the Fumoto valve, with a hose going to the Garboard for relatively easy oil changes.
Thanks guys!
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So how hard is it to get to the valve and for that matter, the oil filter?
I don't know if my oil pan is the one that came on the boat, or came on the replacement engine (or if it matters), but the drain is dead center on the bottom of the pan - is that where it is on your motor?
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So how hard is it to get to the valve and for that matter, the oil filter?
I don't know if my oil pan is the one that came on the boat, or came on the replacement engine (or if it matters), but the drain is dead center on the bottom of the pan - is that where it is on your motor?
So...I had removed my rear flotation boxes, so I could just hang down, stick the hose out the drain plug hole then open the valve. I also made up a little plug for the drain tube so oil residue didn't gunk up the bilge area.
Mine was also in the center of the oil pan. If I remember right, I pulled the bench seat out for the initial install to make it easier to reach everything.
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Thanks - On the CV16SS, do you have a valve between the motor and the transom, or is it ok to just let some motor oil occupy the hose at all times?
I don’t use a valve. It’s basically a brass elbow threaded into drain hole with a high pressure hose coming out of it. The end has a 3/8 npt with cap. After draining you just prop the end up somewhere higher then oil level. No mess.
It all depends on your setup. I couldn’t imagine doing the drain hose on a cv23 for example.
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My CVZ came with a vacuum tube to draw the oil out. Has a male hose end on the top side. Fairly certain that was the 898 stock setup? The pic is what I'll use on the Timi, and plan a union at a garboard drain connection. Essentially the garboard plug will be my oil pan drain. The valve is a good idea as well.
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I ordered the valve, but have been thinking the hassle of reaching it may outweigh the extra safety it provides.
I am thinking that the garboard drain seals well enough to keep water out, so it seals well enough to keep oil in.....
The Garboard drain was not connected to anything when I bought it, but it had a hose barb on it and I think at some point in this boat's life, that is what it was used for.
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Another thought would be to attach the hose end cap to the garboard plug with a small cable/wire/chain? Then just pull the hose out the garboard port
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Another thought would be to attach the hose end cap to the garboard plug with a small cable/wire/chain? Then just pull the hose out the garboard port
True, the advantage here is that the oil doesn't run down the hull.
I may end up doing this starting with a kit like this one:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AYZ58/?coliid=I2O1ROXLFUG6T4&colid=B4VEPKL3ONKJ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000AYZ58/?coliid=I2O1ROXLFUG6T4&colid=B4VEPKL3ONKJ&psc=1&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it)
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FYI, I got mine, Eddie marine, at summit racing for $31.99. free shipping on orders over $100.
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I ordered the valve, but have been thinking the hassle of reaching it may outweigh the extra safety it provides.
I am thinking that the garboard drain seals well enough to keep water out, so it seals well enough to keep oil in.....
The Garboard drain was not connected to anything when I bought it, but it had a hose barb on it and I think at some point in this boat's life, that is what it was used for.
That is what I found on my CVZ also when got it. the barb looked like it had been connected to an oil drain hose at one point but no motor to verify.
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On my cv16ss I run a hose permanently attached to the drain plug on the oil pan through the transom drain hole to drain the oil. It’s slow and hard to get it routed through the transom hole but gets everything out. On the CV23 I pump it through the dipstick which is pretty easy but I imagine that oil pan has some nasty sludge in it.
I can confirm the sludge that is present in a pan that had the oil changed through the dip stick. I just pulled a pan today. Yummy
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I can confirm the sludge that is present in a pan that had the oil changed through the dip stick. I just pulled a pan today. Yummy
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Thanks for the confirmation. My dipstick tube does have the threads, but after all the hard work and expense to rebuild it, I just would not be comfortable with leaving old oil in there - especially the break-in oil!
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At least with stern drive you can get to your drain plug . Most jet drives
don't have that option. Mine is in the center of pan about 1 in. from bottom.
Original motor had 16 years on it when I removed it , couldn't believe how
clean the pan was . Always pumped my oil out, no other choice , I would rather
remove the plug if I could . Used straight 30w oil back then and the motor had to
warm to get it out.
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With a jet it's a pain , I pulled the distributor and pulled a oil line to the cooler , stuck a drill on the oil pump shaft and pumped it dry . Very messy
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The suction line on my CVZ is 3/8" steel tubing to a banjo fitting that replaced the pan drain plug. It is separate from the dipstick tube. I would think it could pull all the oil from the pan similar to draining out the plug. It came on the 898 305, so I guessed it was factory? Was thinking something like this would work for the low clearance applications like jets? The Timi engine sits so high you could put a drain pan in the bilge .
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I can confirm the sludge that is present in a pan that had the oil changed through the dip stick. I just pulled a pan today. Yummy
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I guess I should have been more clear earlier. I have changed the oil in this engine through the dip stick. I've also dumped the oil out the pan drain, which is what i did the other day. My pan has two drains, one that is a 1/2" rigid nipple welded through the pan sticking out about 3" and capped with a typical rigid cap. The other is on an angled area about 5" forward forward from the back, i did not use this drain. While draining the oil I raised the front of the motor to get as much oil out as possible, yes there was visible sludge draining, but not all of it drained. When I removed the pan there was still sludge in there. Not a ton though.
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Guess I'm the only one that doesn't use a pump or drain line. On the CVX 18 (351 windsor) I pull the back seat to get at the oil filter and there is enough room to slide a 6 quart oil pan under the motor. The drain plug is toward the front of the motor. Just need to be steady when removing it.
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Does anybody remote mount the filter for easier access?
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Not a blue engine guy John, but are most front sump? Oil filter a bit better location as well versus sbc/bbc in marine applications at least.
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I have a container with a suction pump. Ill just set it up, pump it up and go do something else and check it till no more comes out.
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Does anybody remote mount the filter for easier access?
Yes!
Here is what I installed on my CV23. Very happy with it and they sell kits for ford and Mopar as well.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/SBC-Remote-Oil-Filter-Relocation-Kit-Horizontal-Inlet-Outlet%2C352059.html?OriginalQuery=916-02087
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200605/16578ad882c607a402e347e6332617c1.jpg)
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Yes!
Here is what I installed on my CV23. Very happy with it and they sell kits for ford and Mopar as well.
https://www.speedwaymotors.com/SBC-Remote-Oil-Filter-Relocation-Kit-Horizontal-Inlet-Outlet%2C352059.html?OriginalQuery=916-02087
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200605/16578ad882c607a402e347e6332617c1.jpg)
Thanks, I think I will do this too!
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Had to show this one.
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??? Hopefully Methods A, B, and C make more sense!
They say you can do it that way with Harley's, but I never would to my Buell (when I had it).
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This was in the shop manual not in the owners manual.