Minnesota Classic Glastron Forum
General Category => General Discussion => Topic started by: KnuckleHead on June 24, 2020, 04:08:24 PM
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Has anyone removed the deck from a '71 CV-16? Can I replace the transom without removing the deck? I read that pre-1974 the deck was held on with rivets and from the underside, it looks like it is sealed with glass.
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Our 75 CV16 V8 is the same way, I decided to do it without splitting the hull though it is going to be difficult.
In order to do an outboard without splitting the hull The transom would have to be done in pieces I believe that would make it considerably weaker but it could be done.
But I agree that that is a lot of rivets to drill out and glass to cut, ours is glassed solid all the way to the nose.
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Well … That's interesting Joe !
Thought all post 1973 CV were screwed and tabbed at stern and small spot by dash.
You don't have the wood strip running around inner hull ?
Maybe glassed because of extra weight and power of V8 ?
Is Shawn's CV16V8 same (riveted & glass / tabbed entire deck to hull) ?
Mr. KnuckleHead .. What's your first name ? … LOL
I talked with a guy before doing mine, who had done his in two pieces without splitting deck from hull.
He did it by overlapping the two pieces of wood. slipping first one up into splash well / hull space, then adding the other under it, then bonding and screwing the two together. He did it over 12 years ago and is still holding up.
I planned on running rated power, but with motor lifted and a newer motor that is prop rated power, so didn't want to risk it.
My deck to hull joint was screwed and just tabbed at stern and small tab at dash.
My stringer and floor were in good shape so didn't remove.
But my hull cracked shortly after rebuild. You should add some fiberglass to hull along chines or better yet a core.
How much power do you plan on using ?
Picture
#1 CV16 with two piece transom wood
#2 wood around hull to hold screws
#3 deck
#4 transom
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Is Shawn's CV16V8 same (riveted & glass / tabbed entire deck to hull) ?
No
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Is Shawn's a 1976 ?
Guess I could look at his profile ..
EDIT ..
His is a 1976
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Is it possible to seacast pour a new transom in one piece? Even if you had to hole saw a couple openings, sounds like it might be easier than a hull split?
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Guess you could cut off top of transom, dig old wood out, make mold for new transom, pour Seacast or your choose of stuff, glass transom cap back on.
No matter what ya do ...
Get a oscillating tool .. It will be your new best friend … LOL
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These pictures are great! Thank you. If I have to sand and gel coat the whole thing does that make a difference in the decision to take the deck off? I have an oscillating tool and your right it is invaluable. I burned through my first blade already. That Seacast stuff looks awesome!
-Alex
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I've never used the seacast before, but others on this site have, Doug for instance. Never rots or holds water. I'd consider it if I was repainting.
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I did my CVZ-18's transom in Seacast. Removed all the wood, but left the original fiberglass in place as the form. Made sure it was dry and clean inside and poured it. Worked really well, and its how I'd do it again if I'm ever in need.
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I just did my 73 cv16. It was glassed all the way around. At the splash well it was glassed at the bottom and sides. Cut it from the inside. You should be able to see where to cut. Ill post a pick as soon as I figure out how
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Welcome to the forum Nwolf !
Click on " Attachments and other options"
From the drop down click "Browse"
Direct it to where your pictures are stored.
Large pictures from a smart phone can take a long time to load and can time out if you load 6 to 8 pictures in one post.
If your still having problems … let me know ...
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My fiberglass over transom wood was very thin and cracked and pealing in spots.
Would have been very hard to remove some of the still solid wood without destroying it.
Also there wasn't any fiberglass on transom wood behind floatation foam boxes.
Just wet wood that I could remove with my fingers.
Pictures #3 & #4 are foam boxes removed.
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The light line that you can see through the glass is where to cut. I used a half circle blade on my cutter. Worked great except for the last few inches of the bow.
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Thanks all! I am so thankful to have found this forum.
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I went thru a lot of blades, until I got some "Metal cutting" blades.
Last a LOT longer !