Author Topic: 1980 CVZ 18 restoration (Read 43831 times)

Hyperacme · « **Reply #20 on:** February 10, 2018, 05:05:31 PM »

" Just did a test spot for Suntek and it looks like it will work well. "

Suntek ?
Did a search and came up with window tint ?

Chippy · « **Reply #21 on:** February 10, 2018, 06:53:06 PM »

Geez I hope I didn’t spell it wrong. This shop has used it a lot and really likes it. I was told it’s basically a clear gel coat. They just took the oxidization of by light sanding and apply. Then wet sand. The boat had 2 drain holes so we filled the second and there’s no foam in this boat just drainage holes. The transom area had new backing put in for the swim ladder as the original holes missed the wood so I don’t know how the thing didn’t get pulled off! The whole rear of the boat will be skinned in the white gel coat so I probably won’t carpet in the storage areas were I removed the foam boxes.

thedeuceman · « **Reply #22 on:** February 11, 2018, 07:43:55 AM »

Could it be duratec, it’s an additive for clear gel most often referred to as patch booster. It helps reduce the orange peel when spraying clear gel. It seems I did read that you can use it by itself as well.

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Retro Performance · « **Reply #23 on:** February 11, 2018, 08:11:12 AM »

Joe, have you used Duratec? Does it make a major difference in Orange peel?

thedeuceman · « **Reply #24 on:** February 11, 2018, 11:24:30 AM »

Yes I have and it does, I think I mixed it at about 25% I would have to check my notes to know for sure. I think I posted just exactly how I mixed and sprayed everything on the 1900 rebuild thread

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Chippy · « **Reply #25 on:** February 16, 2018, 12:33:33 PM »

Engine cover ready for the new emblems and hatch screws.

Chippy · « **Reply #26 on:** February 16, 2018, 03:38:16 PM »

Really need a vent. Anyone have a lead on one or two?

Chippy · « **Reply #27 on:** February 16, 2018, 03:42:43 PM »

And my apologies for not clarifying prior. This is Duratech sunshield product.

75starflight · « **Reply #28 on:** February 16, 2018, 04:28:17 PM »

Quote from: Chippy on February 16, 2018, 03:42:43 PM

And my apologies for not clarifying prior. This is Duratech sunshield product.

The boat looks great! I wish my metal flake was not so faded out to silver in places or I would probably try it this next summer.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #29 on:** February 16, 2018, 04:57:37 PM »

WOW ! That looks GREAT !

Duratec Clear Polyester Top Coats
http://www.expresscomposites.com/?product=polyester-top-coats

fireman24mn · « **Reply #30 on:** February 19, 2018, 12:08:38 PM »

Quote from: 75starflight on February 16, 2018, 04:28:17 PM

The boat looks great! I wish my metal flake was not so faded out to silver in places or I would probably try it this next summer.

Sorry to Hijack,
I bet you could add some pigment into the duratec and spray a couple coats to get the desired blue color. The one or 2 more coats of just clear durance. It is just like applying a candy coat on basecoat/ clearcoat paint jobs.

nes-cv23 · « **Reply #31 on:** February 19, 2018, 05:00:18 PM »

When I did ruby I wanted to keep the original red but the red was so faded it looked silver. I added a little red candy to the clear and it turned out really nice. And kept all the sparkle flake. Check out before and after.

Plugcheck · « **Reply #32 on:** February 19, 2018, 05:37:40 PM »

It has been my experience that when a colored metal flake has some silver flakes in it is because someone went too far wet sanding or buffing. Now some jobs combine flakes of different colors with good results, but if most of the flakes are one color with patchy spots of silver, that's how it usually happens. Most won't notice, but if it bothers you, then adding tint to the clear is effective to mask the silver spots. Looks like your cvz is coming out quite nicely, engine cover looks fantastic.

75starflight · « **Reply #33 on:** February 19, 2018, 06:44:12 PM »

Quote from: nes-cv23 on February 19, 2018, 05:00:18 PM

When I did ruby I wanted to keep the original red but the red was so faded it looked silver. I added a little red candy to the clear and it turned out really nice. And kept all the sparkle flake. Check out before and after.

I had forgotten about Ruby looking like that. That is exactly how the stern of my CVZ-18 looks. Might be a good option for the metal flake and then just repair the yellow.

Chippy · « **Reply #34 on:** February 23, 2018, 06:42:12 PM »

So I have not been able to find a new blower vent. Contacted a 3D printer here and looks like I will be able to have a couple made up. I will be dropping off my one intact vent for scanning next week and will update.
Also new SEI leg is in so hopefully start putting engine back in the next week or two.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #35 on:** February 23, 2018, 07:48:42 PM »

" Contacted a 3D printer "

Did he give you a price estimate ?
It will need to be chrome plated also ?

As you know ..Hard to find item ...

Chippy · « **Reply #36 on:** February 24, 2018, 09:52:50 AM »

Yup being oil and gas town lots of companies print for them. Cost was better than my time to keep looking. I will chrome myself.

75starflight · « **Reply #37 on:** February 24, 2018, 10:14:48 AM »

If they turn out ok, you might be able to make a few bucks by having several reproduced.

I was going to look into 3d printing some, but the nearest printer to me is 150 miles so i haven't looked into it much.

Chippy · « **Reply #38 on:** February 24, 2018, 10:21:58 AM »

This forum has been good to me. If they turn out good I will be glad to help others out. Also this is Canada so it will be like paying in Pesos for my American friends here.

Jason · « **Reply #39 on:** February 25, 2018, 10:00:32 PM »

If you get the solid model geometry that would be a huge. Are they going to digitally scan a good vent? We have a 3D printer at my work.