Author Topic: Kert's engine build Ford 302 (Read 28970 times)

OleRed · « **Reply #60 on:** June 05, 2013, 08:38:19 AM »

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The instructions basically said to used break in oil mixed with the regular oil and run it a a reduced RPM for the first hour of operation.

Cam break-in is important to me, and I'm all about the Zink, Rotella 15/40, and I use it in everything I run, has more zink than most oils, and I'll add a bottle of the Lucas break-in oil, it comes in a 16 oz bottle, cost about $12, run the motor 2000 rpm + for the first 20 minutes, and I'll time that, rip it up a few times, not just to hear it roar, but it's good for the cam, the cam lobes are actually oiled from splashed oil on them.

kert0307 · « **Reply #61 on:** June 05, 2013, 09:08:45 AM »

I do have a bottle of the Lucus break in additive already, I was planning on using a straight 30 weight oil though. I do have some 15/40 for my diesel, do you think that would be better? 40 weight in a new gas motor just seems a little heavy to me.

Jason · « **Reply #62 on:** June 05, 2013, 09:44:29 AM »

Not that you are running a stock mercury motor, but mercury brand oil specs out 25W-40 for their engines. Maybe the little bit thicker oil is better for running longer runs at high RPM's. I would think any 40 weight oil with lots of zinc would be fine.

kert0307 · « **Reply #63 on:** June 05, 2013, 03:41:55 PM »

I know the stock valve covers said something on them about an oil viscosity, I'll have to dig them out and see what it says. It was either straight 30 or 40 weight. I know it also said something like use only 93 octane which I always thought was weird since it had 8 to 1 compression stock and 10 deg of timing... I figured it must have been an emissions deal of purposely running it lean or something?

Jason · « **Reply #64 on:** June 05, 2013, 04:30:47 PM »

Quote from: kert0307 on June 05, 2013, 03:41:55 PM

I know the stock valve covers said something on them about an oil viscosity, I'll have to dig them out and see what it says. It was either straight 30 or 40 weight. I know it also said something like use only 93 octane which I always thought was weird since it had 8 to 1 compression stock and 10 deg of timing... I figured it must have been an emissions deal of purposely running it lean or something?

You might be right. I think i saw that on my CV16SS too. Maybe it's on the newer stuff. The local shop around here says they put the 25W-40 (Mercury) in everything.

kert0307 · « **Reply #65 on:** June 06, 2013, 10:32:25 PM »

Video during break in with some rips for Red

I'm sure this helped my standings with the neighbors do in an engine break in at 9:30pm...

Engine Break-in for CVX16 V8

Starting after the break in idle still might be a little high.

CVX16 V8 motor

Jason · « **Reply #66 on:** June 06, 2013, 10:35:23 PM »

Sounds like a very happy Ford to me! Nice job.

kert0307 · « **Reply #67 on:** June 07, 2013, 09:21:57 AM »

Here is the bracket I made for mounting the alternator to the head instead of the timing cover.

Glastronjohn18 · « **Reply #68 on:** June 07, 2013, 05:07:46 PM »

Good job on getting the SBF together! Looks good and sounds strong.
I like the description "very happy Ford"

kert0307 · « **Reply #69 on:** June 07, 2013, 05:28:53 PM »

All back together, packing up to head down to Rathbun to meet up with the rest of the group! I got the Keel guard on the front too!

Glastronjohn18 · « **Reply #70 on:** June 07, 2013, 05:49:24 PM »

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All back together, packing up to head down to Rathbun to meet up with the rest of the group!

That's great that you're good to go.

Have a good time at Rathburn!

Tmstibbe · « **Reply #71 on:** June 07, 2013, 10:18:53 PM »

Kick Red's butt at Rathbun!

kert0307 · « **Reply #72 on:** June 09, 2013, 07:45:22 PM »

Boat ran well, so far I beat my previous top speed by about 7mph. Boat started getting a chine walk and since Jessy was with me I let out of it. I have no doubt this boat will hit over 60mph now, but it does get a bit sketchy after 57 mph. The boat has an awesome idle note in gear turning about 600rpm, you can hear it towards the end of Doran's second video he posted around the bridge.

The bad news is I do have an oil leak to track down, so I will probably have to pull the motor again to get it sealed up right. But it will give me a chance to put the nosecone on the drive while its apart again...

OleRed · « **Reply #73 on:** June 09, 2013, 10:51:32 PM »

That little baby Souneded and ran Great !
for those of you that weren't there, you Missed something, when Tim Kert and Robert from Missouri took off together, it sounded like a thunder storm.

kert0307 · « **Reply #74 on:** June 13, 2013, 05:24:49 PM »

Thanks for all the complements. Just for reference, I'm going to add prices round to the nearest $10 or $20 amount of how much this build cost me since it seems to be pretty rare to find any 302 Ford builds for marine motors.

Block machining costs
Bore all cylinders .030 over $140
Sleeve and sleeve installation cost $120
Cam bearings and installation $60
Press out wrist pins and install rods to new pistons $30
Pressure test block $60
Clean block $40

Slightly used Edelbrock Performer RPM heads $650 ($1450 new for reference)
Lunati cam and hydraulic lifters $180
Stainless roller rockers $120
Dual plane intake manifold $120
Gasket kit $40
Speed Pro pistons and rings $150
Double roller timing chain set $50
New harmonic balancer $75
ARP rod bolts $60
Rod and crank bearings $75
Aluminum water pump $100
Aluminum timing cover $50
New marine starter $65
Comp Cams Magnum hardened push rods (needed since I have guide plates) $70

So $2255 ish, probably forgot a few things and I/friends did all the assembly. Keep in mind I had a carb (600 cfm holley marine) to use already and the alternator was new last year so it didn't get replaced or figured in.

If you did a budget build and kept it stock, did the work yourself, and reused parts like starter, balancer, ect you could get it done under a grand.

GCarlover · « **Reply #75 on:** July 27, 2013, 10:39:21 PM »

I've been reading your latest results. Replied to a few of them (About your Ford engine with the big valves)
I've got a small shop in part of my garage with a welder and metal turning lathe. (If anyone need's one it's for sale. Worth about $2000.) Made a large drill press from scratch. Sold it and then needed it about 10 more times. Just to compliment you; you seem very talented. Nice job on the rebuild. I worked in an auto tune up shop in Lincoln back in the Sixties. Commission only so I gave it up.

TWISTED CVX · « **Reply #76 on:** July 28, 2013, 02:17:53 PM »

If you go with high ratio rockers make sure you check for spring binding on your valve springs. Also check you mating with the rocker on the valve surface you can use either some Lithium grease or persian blue and place a small dab on the face of the valve stem then adjust your rocker to the proper preload. Rotate the the engine over by hand and make sure the contact of the rocker stays centered on the valve stem facing. If your push rods are too long it will put the rocker forward on the facing and your your valve train geomerty will be off and you will lose horse power. They make a push rod checking tool that you can get from Summit or any other performance out let to check your correct length of your push rod once you have the rocker facing centered on the valve facing take out the push rod length checker measure the distants and then order the correct length push rods. I think you have and excellent combination there with the the 302 that you are putting together and she will be a beast when you are done/

kert0307 · « **Reply #77 on:** July 30, 2013, 09:07:06 AM »

I ended up going with normal 1.6 to 1 roller rockers. For my push rods I test fitted the stock ones in there and they were just a little short so I ordered some hardened Comp Cams Magnum rods a littler longer and they lined up pretty well.

Quote from: GCarlover on July 27, 2013, 10:39:21 PM

I've got a small shop in part of my garage with a welder and metal turning lathe. (If anyone need's one it's for sale. Worth about $2000.)

I might actually be interested in a small lathe... That and a small mill are about all I'm missing to have a nice little fab shop in my 2 car garage

To be honest though it will probably be towards the end of the year before I can justify buying one since I just purchased a couple other things for my "hobby business" and I need to build some cash flow back up. Kind of sad I have a hobby business going to support my other hobbies

TWISTED CVX · « **Reply #78 on:** July 30, 2013, 10:25:57 AM »

Quote from: kert0307 on July 30, 2013, 09:07:06 AM

I ended up going with normal 1.6 to 1 roller rockers. For my push rods I test fitted the stock ones in there and they were just a little short so I ordered some hardened Comp Cams Magnum rods a littler longer and they lined up pretty well. Ok

Quote from: GCarlover on July 27, 2013, 10:39:21 PM
I've got a small shop in part of my garage with a welder and metal turning lathe. (If anyone need's one it's for sale. Worth about $2000.)

I might actually be interested in a small lathe... That and a small mill are about all I'm missing to have a nice little fab shop in my 2 car garage
To be honest though it will probably be towards the end of the year before I can justify buying one since I just purchased a couple other things for my "hobby business" and I need to build some cash flow back up. Kind of sad I have a hobby business going to support my other hobbies

GCarlover · « **Reply #79 on:** August 03, 2013, 12:52:44 PM »

If you ever get near Fremont, NE send me a personal. I'll show you my boat and my 36" lathe in my shop. It's heavy. The boat's in Omaha in the Winter.