Author Topic: My new CV16SS! (Read 5702 times)

JonnyLaw · « **on:** August 10, 2025, 11:12:57 PM »

Hey all, so I just picked up this beauty. It's a 1973 CV16SS that's been repainted. I believe originally it was the red metal flake. It's not in horrible shape, but it definitely needs some love, including a full restoration on the interior.

I noticed that there are definitely some spots in the floor that are rotting, so I think I will have to replace the floor. Also, it has the merc 140, and I was wondering if anyone knew how feasible it would be to upgrade it to the 4.3 V6? I assume I would have to upgrade the outdrive as well.

Thanks

Hyperacme · « **Reply #1 on:** August 11, 2025, 10:09:42 AM »

If it's early 1973, it will have a data plate on throttle board / gear change lever. If it's later 1973 it will have a HIN molded into right side of stern, just under rub rail. The 1973 CV was MF gold or MF apricot. Ian put a 4.3 in his CV16SS. Not sure how much work it was .. His info would be on his FB page or one of the FB Glastron groups.

Also check out this rebuild ... https://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=8526.0

thedeuceman · « **Reply #2 on:** August 11, 2025, 05:06:12 PM »

It is certainly feasible, as stated, Ian did it, and also the small block Ford conversion that Gregg just posted, the cv16 was also available in 75 I think with a V8 small block Ford, the upper Outdrive has a different gear ratio for a six cylinder. If you were gonna make that conversion finding a donor boat would probably be the easiest then you have all the parts that go together.

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JonnyLaw · « **Reply #3 on:** August 11, 2025, 06:06:20 PM »

Thanks a lot. I've been looking for more info on 4.3 swaps but it's tough. I guess it's not that popular? My main concern is if I have to cut the shell to fit the engine, I would really like to avoid that. I'm sure I will have to make a new engine cover, but that's okay. I'm also sure I will have to reenforce the floor and engine mount area, which is also fine. I just don't want to cut into the original boat shell if I can help it.

I found the Coastguard tag in the glovebox. which is how I found out it was CV16SS, the guy I bought from said it was a CV16. So that was a score for me. I also found out on that tag that the boat was made in Anaheim, California, which is where I'm from, so that's pretty cool.

Thanks for the info

Hyperacme · « **Reply #4 on:** August 11, 2025, 08:07:13 PM »

CV16V8's had different deck in stern then CV16SS's. I'm searching for pictures of Ian's Volvo / Glastron I/O retro fit with a 4.3/Mercruiser. Pretty sure he had to do some cutting to get it to fit. CV16SS on left / CV16V8 on right ... Pictures of a CV16V8

JonnyLaw · « **Reply #5 on:** August 14, 2025, 03:21:42 PM »

Quote from: Hyperacme on August 11, 2025, 08:07:13 PM

CV16V8's had different deck in stern then CV16SS's. I'm searching for pictures of Ian's Volvo / Glastron I/O retro fit with a 4.3/Mercruiser. Pretty sure he had to do some cutting to get it to fit. CV16SS on left / CV16V8 on right ... Pictures of a CV16V8

Thanks for the info. I searched for and wide for this fabled CV16 with a swapped 4.3 and I think I found it. If I'm right then yeah it definitely looks like he did some cutting. I also saw the Ford swap Hyperacme posted and I like what he did with widening the engine bay and keeping the original flanges. In a dream scenario I'd like to be able to swap in a 4.3 and keep the engine bay stock-ish looking. I don't want over the transom headers and I'd still like to have an engine cover, even if I had to make it.

For now I'm just doing the basic repair and restoration work on the interior, dash, floor, etc. The 4.3 swap is just something I'd maybe like to do down the line if I can pull it off without having an open engine bay. If I can get the boat to do 50-55 with two people, I'd be happy. I'll post some pics of the progress soon.

Here is the 4.3 swap I think you were referring to

75starflight · « **Reply #6 on:** August 14, 2025, 03:39:44 PM »

Build the 140 that is already there. It is already a stroker engine. Have it gone through at a machine shop. Have the head machined to breath better. I put flattop pistons in mine, but you have to run premium fuel if you put flattops in.

Hyperacme · « **Reply #7 on:** August 14, 2025, 10:30:14 PM »

Only pictures I could find of Ian's V6 4.3 conversion

JonnyLaw · « **Reply #8 on:** August 14, 2025, 10:36:58 PM »

Quote from: Hyperacme on August 14, 2025, 10:30:14 PM

Only pictures I could find of Ian's V6 4.3 conversion

Holy smokes this is exactly what I had in mind. Thank you so much.

Here's some pictures from today, got the seats out and vacuumed the carpet just to see what I was dealing with. I did find some rot in the floor in the rear near the engine unfortunately

JonnyLaw · « **Reply #9 on:** August 15, 2025, 10:16:02 PM »

Well boys, it's not looking great. I pulled the carpet and vacuumed it out today, plus took out a little paneling.

As you can see, parts of the floor as well as the wood panels near the engine are totally shot. The wood under the battery tray is shot as well. I was really trying to avoid having to take the shell off because I don't know how to do that and it's a little more than I am ready to chew at the moment. Is there a way to repair these issues without having to pull the whole top half of the boat off?

JonnyLaw · « **Reply #10 on:** August 17, 2025, 08:25:47 PM »

Going a little deeper than I wanted to. Going to try and have a new floor and the engine back in by next Sunday. I'm very new to all of this, but as I kept digging deeper, I just found more issues.

Joebergen355 · « **Reply #11 on:** August 18, 2025, 10:11:32 AM »

i just finished doing the transom, floor, and stringer in my 72 CV16SS with the cap on. it gets a bit tricky in a couple tight spots but if i had to do it again i would probably do it the same way rather than splitting it

Hyperacme · « **Reply #12 on:** August 18, 2025, 05:48:40 PM »

I think most I/O's can be done without splitting deck / hull.
Also some of the older Glastron Carlson's were riveted together at seam.

Joebergen355 · « **Reply #13 on:** August 19, 2025, 09:42:37 AM »

Grinding under the bow was the worst part, otherwise it went smoothly. The cap also adds support to the hull while its empty

JonnyLaw · « **Reply #14 on:** August 19, 2025, 11:09:40 AM »

Thanks for the tips everyone. Unfortunately the stringer is totally rotted near the engine. It gets better as it goes up toward the bow. The transom seems good so far. Honestly I wasn't planning on doing a full-blown resto on this boat, but now I'm just taking it one day at a time to not get overwhelmed because it's looking more and more like I'm going to need to gut the entire boat and rebuild it from the hull up.

I'm considering splitting the stringer and scarfing in a new section from about the middle of the boat back down to the bilge sump. The only reason I would do this is because I don't want to remove all the wood under the bow and have to rebuild all of that. Even though, sadly, it looks like that may be necessary. This is the first boat I've ever restored at this level, so kind of just learning as I go.

For context, this boat will spend most of its life on the Colorado River near Needles/Lake Havasu, where the water can get very rough.

Any tips, suggestions, or advice are welcomed

Joebergen355 · « **Reply #15 on:** August 19, 2025, 12:56:05 PM »

when i started getting into mine it was the first time id done a project of this scale, i also went into it thinking i might leave the front section in but ultimately decided to do it all once i was in there. it honestly was not near as bad as i thought it would be. removing the ski locker and fuel tank was tricky because of the tight space but was worth it and was pretty simple to rebuild (save the old pieces for templates, then make new templates out of cardboard before using up good material). I use mine on the CT river which can also get pretty rough and at times busy so i wanted to make sure it was able to handle it and most importantly, gave me piece of mind to use the boat and enjoy it rather than worry about it (this is also why i used all composite)

the best thing i learned about this work was that there's nothing that cant be fixed and none of the mistakes i was afraid of making had to be permanent. lots of good info/references on these forums and the classic Glastron Facebook page

thedeuceman · « **Reply #16 on:** August 19, 2025, 09:05:46 PM »

I did our CV16V8 without splitting the hull, yea under the bow is a PIA, but can be done, I can link the thread tomorrow if you can?t find it.

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Joebergen355 · « **Reply #17 on:** August 20, 2025, 02:18:21 PM »

Heres @thedeuceman s thread of the v8. i used it for reference often. once i have some free time format photos and organize a thread i will update mine with photos and how i did it all, though i basically followed records from Joe and Gregg

https://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=8488.40

Hyperacme · « **Reply #18 on:** August 20, 2025, 04:21:16 PM »

In upper right corner of screen is a "search"
Try CV16 & CVX16. Most have info that pertains to the CV's ..

NEVER EVER EVER EVER use wood ... ONLY composites ! Maybe just for floor .. IF .. both sides are coated with resin

JonnyLaw · « **Reply #19 on:** August 20, 2025, 07:27:30 PM »

Quote from: Joebergen355 on August 20, 2025, 02:18:21 PM

Heres @thedeuceman s thread of the v8. i used it for reference often. once i have some free time format photos and organize a thread i will update mine with photos and how i did it all, though i basically followed records from Joe and Gregg

https://forum.cgoamn.com/index.php?topic=8488.40

This is great. Thanks a lot